Hi. I'm working on my basement and I want to frame in some walls. I want to fasten the 2x4 bottom plate to the poured concrete floor. I want to use my powder actuated nailer. I have a Uniset XL-99. I was planning on using 2-1/2 anchors. What size/or color cartridge do I need? Am I using the right length fastener? Thanks, Ethan
rayethan, Welcome to the DIY Forums. You shold have a book with your nailer that gives you specific charge amounts for certain materials. I'm sure you know that these nailers can be quite dangerous so it would be in your best interest to get the info for your nailer. It may also give hints on what length fasteners to use. I am not an expert on this subject but keep watching this post as someone who uses this type equipment may be able to give you more information. Good luck with your project.
Unfortunately, I don't have the instructions and Google is no help. (I can't believe it isn't online somewhere, but Google can't find it). I'm hoping, as you are, that someone in this forum knows what to use. Thanks, E
I use a Remington but the colors are standard Not often enought to tell you which color is which from memory, but I can check I can't get to mine right now But if no-one chimes in by morning I'll grab mine and post back
Well I wanted to give you the By the Book answers As a general rule penetration should be approx. 1 - 1 1/2 inches NEVER use fasteners more than 2 1/2 inches long (caps. theirs) ...start with the lowest power load (gray) and increase untill a proper fastening is made Remington Power Loads (1=lowest, 4=highest) 1 gray, 2 Brown, 3 Green, 4 Yellow Personally Penetration of 1 maybe ideal but not always achievable As you may have noticed with a max fastener of 2 1/2 through a 2x4 gives you about 3/4 Though not ideal by the book, with 2x4s on concrete floor, that's about all you can do and all I have done, ever One of which is 12 years strong when I saw it in August In regards to starting with a lower power load first I always do that because you never know how well it is going to penetrate, concrete varies greatly It's best to have a few power levels on hand Brown may work fine for the first 4 and then doesn't cut it for the next 2 and you need green PS This does say these are Remington colors so I'm not sure about the standards between brands Also don't forget eye and ear protection!
Thanks, this is a huge help. I've got some yellow cartridges, but I wasn't sure if they were strong enough/too strong. I can't imagine using more than a 2-1/2 fastener, but I didn't want to go much smaller as they need to hold. Although, they are just partition walls, no loads on them. About how far apart did you place the fasteners? Thanks for you help. E
Realisticaly you'll probably need the yellows If you don't want to get some lesser ones just keep in mind your first yellow may go through the wood, most likely not but I think you get the idea As for spacing that can vary I usually end up doing about 18, like studs, just staggered from where the studs actually go I deal with a lot of old, old, houses and the concrete can vary tremendously, so I often have to play it by ear If it's going right in, not crumbling, 2 1/2s just right, 18 is probably over kill But who wants to remove the drywall and re-doit if it loosens? Not Me! Often with the oldie but moldies I get iffy results, and sometimes find I'm doing 2 in between studs
Sorry to jump in late, but with all powder actuated tools, you typically want a 1 embedment into the concrete, even for interior partition walls. I am not familiar with your tool model or the psi of your concrete, but with most .27 caliber tools, a yellow booster should be sufficient to keep the fastener from fish hooking or the concrete spalling. A 2 1/2 nail with washer for increased bearing surface on the 2 x 4 is correct. And as Slickshift mentioned, pin spacing will vary depending on the shear or tension loads being applied to the fastener.
Tags: size, cartridge, powder, actuated, nailer, with your, book with, concrete floor, more than, partition walls, power load
...is waterborne enamel just another way of saying latex enamel. I'm pretty sure its is, but want to be sure. thanks for not making me look stoopid.
Waterborne enamel [or any waterborne coating] is different from latex. I'm not smart enough to give you the technical reason they differ Waterborne enamels [specifically SWP proclassic] dries harder than typical latex enamels, has many of the same properties oil base has but brushes, rollers, spray, all clean up with water.
I've been told it was a marketing term more than technical I'm not sure if that's true Regardless, I can tell you it denotes a much superior product designed to work like an oil, as opposed to latex enamel which describes a cheaper paint more like a wall paint as opposed to a trim paint
Its been a while, but there ARE some technical differences between the two. Latex Enamal has more plasticizers in them. This gives them the advantage of being flexible. However this comes at a cost of stickiness. Ever have a window that sticks because of the paint. Its the plasticizers. Waterborne enamels have less of them and more rigidity (is that a word?). They are much harder and less prone to stick to each other after curing. Not drying, curing. This makes them ideal for woodshops. Less VOC problems, and they perform like solvent based products. Also, dont be fooled by the marketing of Contains 100% acrylic. All that means in marketing speak is that the acrylic in the paint (Can be quite low, maybe 5% of volume or so.) is 100% acrylic. Get it, there is only 5% in the can, but 100% of that 5% is acrylic. Cheap paints use tricky language to sound expensive. Anyway hope that helps!
enamel no long means anything. it is a marking term placed on many different products regardless of type or quality.
We want to replace our house's original 40 year old metal framed, single pane sliding windows with vinyl replacement ones. We live in NY state and during the winter if you get within 5 feet of them, you can feel the cold (kinda the opposite of a fireplace). I've looked at the Thermastar by Pella windows from Lowes, the Amercian Craftsman by Anderson from Home Depot, and from Window World. Anyone have any advice about which way to go? Any of these 3 to stay away from? Any personal experience to share? I'm at a little of an analysis paralysis stage and not sure which way to go. Let me know if you need anymore information. Thanks for any help. Mark
Those are all pretty much low-end windows. When I was back in VA, Window World actually used the same windows as HD, only under a different name. Those windows are sold at a pricepoint, not on quality. You need to step up to the top option/series in any of those brands. Not that they probably won't be better than what you have now, and not that they aren't ok, just not the greatest. I wouldn't have a Pella in my garage though. The others are pretty much the Hyundai Accents of windows. Basic, cheap, not the best quality. Will they do the job, yep, do they have pretty good warranties, yep....would you want to drive them....that's up to you. Unless your budget is severely limited, I would suggest you need to look upscale a little bit. Maybe some of our Pro's will have some brand recommendations later. I sold many many AC windows from HD, and overall people were happy with their purchases. The majority of problems were with ordering and manufacturing errors. Some folks apparently had much higher expectations and were never going to be satisfied. What do they expect from a $125 window?
I've had Marvin windows in my own home and my parents replaced all of the windows in their home with Marvin, we've all been pleased
Well I don't think Window World has any step up from what they showed me in sliders (I believe they do have 3 different lines of double hungs). As for the Pellas or Andersons, I think their next step up is a wood window with a cladded exterior if I'm not mistaken, but I imagine that gets much pricier. Yes - our budget is very limited so price is a huge factor. Getting the 30% tax credit next spring is a big reason we are considering doing the windows at all (we've lived through 2 winters so far). And as you say, any of these windows will be a dramatic improvement over what I currently have. I'll check out the Marvins - I had forgot about them. What other brands of vinyl windows should I be looking at? Thanks. Mark
So it looks like Marvin's Infinity line is their non-wood replacement line. I see it's fiberglass instead of vinyl. How does that compare to vinyl? Infinity from Marvin Replacement Windows | Replacement Fiberglass Windows - Infinity from Marvin
I am very happy with my Soft-Lite windows. You can check their website to see if there is a dealer near you. We ended up negotiating and paying a little more than Window World, but got much better windows.
I had forgotten that AC was now by Andersen...it means nothing. It's like calling an Aveo a Chevy...when it's really a Daewoo.
Originally Posted by Indiana627 So it looks like Marvin's Infinity line is their non-wood replacement line. I see it's fiberglass instead of vinyl. How does that compare to vinyl? Infinity from Marvin Replacement Windows | Replacement Fiberglass Windows - Infinity from Marvin Marvins fiberglas is a step up from the vinyl. The big drawback to vinyl in hard climates is that it dries out and becomes brittle after the years. Another benefit IMO is the color seems to hold better as vinyl colors tend to sun bleach after time. Pella, Marvin, and Andersen will give you the best 'no headache' warranty option, which is very important Marvin and Andersen use the same glass manufacturer (Cardinal IG which is the 2nd largest in the world.) Glass quality wont be an issue with either of those 2, and absolutely get their LowE. One thing to note if you are planning on a wood interior/clad exterior window though. All 3 of these have many models that the glass is not replaceable. Be it warranty issue or a rock from the kid next door, your only option will be to go back through them, and at that point you are trying to match the finish of your existing millwork to the primed sash/casement supplied by the manufacturer. Whichever way you go though, as GunGuy mentioned, step up your budget as far as you can. You will eventually forget about the money you spent on a good window, but a cold one will never let you forget
Thanks for all the advice. Has anyone used the Infinity windows from Marvin?
I put Infinitys in my 2003 home remodel in Minneapolis and can highly recommend them.
I just replaced 13 double hung windows in my home with American Craftsman 8500 windows from Home Depot. It went pretty well, and I think these windows are OK. I sell real estate, so I see a lot of replacement windows. These are better than the really low end windows. If you're on a budget, I'd consider them. A couple of things to be aware of: Don't expect the Home Depot people to be able to answer your questions. They don't know as much about them as I do (although they'll tell you what they think). Don't get the lower grade windows - stick with the 8500 or 9500. I keep hearing people talk about the $125 window - mine were higher than that. My windows are approximately 36 X 45, and cost right around $200 apiece in beige. These are Low E, Argon, qualify for the tax credit. I think the price varies depending on where you buy them.
I had another local window company come out and measure and quote. He quoted Sunrise vinyl windows and the Infinity fiberglass from Marvin. The Infinity's are pretty much out of my price range. The Sunrise are a little more than the Window World quote, but I'm wondering if they're worth it. I've never heard of Sunrise. Does anyone have any feedback on them? I'm looking at their glider series vinyl replacement. Thanks. Mark
I put in American Craftsman series 3000 windows. They are the highest end American Craftsman windows that HD sold...2 years ago. I am VERY happy with them. Energy efficient and well made. I'm not claiming that they are the best on the market but they are good. I had to special order them.
Any feedback on the Sunrise windows anyone? In what order would you rank the Sunrise, Window World, American Craftsman and Thermastar windows?
I installed one A/C replacement window. Very satisfied with it. And I'd plan to replace two more EXCEPT for one thing: My old storm window will not fit over it! Specs say the window itself is 3-1/4 thick, but the extra lip for the screen adds another 3/8 to 1/2 to the overall thickness. The screen (and channel) is included when manufactured, and you can't get them without that extra lip (or channel). I had to add a 1/4 spacer to move my storm wdo 'out' so I could access the storm wdo knobs. That extra channel probably adds some strength to the window, but I'm sure they're missing out on a lot of sales because of this. SteveS
I got quotes on replacing my 13 old windows with new energy efficient double-hungs. I wanted to get this job done before winter and save some money on my heating bill. I realized I could get a dozen quotes and find a wide range of prices. But I liked that home depot had the best window - Simonton (according to JD Power ranking) and home depot backs up the warranty for LIFE. One other company promised me this lifetime warranty too, but it's no good if the company is out of business. (Lowes only has a 1 year craftmanship warranty)I felt comfortable that home depot would be in business to service my windows for FREE as long as I own my home. Even if I'm mowing my grass 30 years from now and a rock goes through my window, they replace it for free. Who does that? I feel like I made the right decision. I figured that everyone can install windows and some will charge a little more or a little less. I want to know that I can trust the company to service and warranty my windows AFTER they've been installed.
Tommy. Parts (glass) are usually what is free. Labor is almost NEVER free, so look for a service fee if you ever need any work done.
My fiance often installs windows as part of his job as a Cincinnati door installation contractor. I asked him what he thought about the brands you mentioned. He recently installed the Sunrise windows (a couple of double acting sliding units) and said he had a bit of trouble squaring them up, but overall found them to be easy to install using shims and a little patience. Originally Posted by Indiana627 Any feedback on the Sunrise windows anyone? In what order would you rank the Sunrise, Window World, American Craftsman and Thermastar windows?
First you're asking about someone in LA, now you say your boyfriend works in Cincinnati and you supposedly live in IN. What's your game plan anyway? Are you looking to be banned? If so, I can accommodate you.
Tags: replacement, windows, lowes, home, depot, window, world, Window World, from Marvin, American Craftsman, Infinity from, Infinity from Marvin
I am about to change the color of my house to a color which will be incompatible with the white roof. The roof is in good shape and I would like to change the color to black. I have used a Black Jack roof coating for sealing other roofs and find it very good, but it dries to a semi gloss finish. I would like soemthing that dries to the flat finish expected on an asphalt shingle roof. Any suggestions?
Welcome to the forums! I don't know about changing the color that much but you can 'color' an asphalt shingle roof with thinned down latex house paint.... and I do mean thinned down - without about 3-4 gallons of water per gallon of paint. The idea is to mist the roof with the thinned down paint. As with any spray job, care must be used to not let the overspray go where it shouldn't.
Originally Posted by Ian208 The thinned out paint will not hold up under the weather conditions. Try using a light bitumin based coating instead.************** That is probably what I am looking for. As I said, I have used a Black Jack latex roof coating on other property I have. This seems to apply easily and stand up well. My only objection to it is that it has a semi gloss finish. I am looking for a product that would dry flat.
I notice that Behr sells a roof paint. The local dealer for that is Home Depot, that is not where I would go for advice. Has anyone here had any experience with it?
Have you read the Behr 'roof paint' label? it should specify what substrates it's intended for. It might be for metal roofs.
Originally Posted by marksr Have you read the Behr 'roof paint' label? it should specify what substrates it's intended for. It might be for metal roofs. Yes, I visted their web site. It is basically an elastometric (sp?) compund. They list a number of surfaces to be covered and include asphalt shingle. I have used similarly compounded latex roof sealers previously on asphalt roofing, with good results. They seem to adhere nicely and retain their color, black. I would consider thinning one of those (water), but they dry to a semi-gloss. Behr is supposed to dry to a flat finish, I was hoping to hear real world experience with it.
I've used elastromeric coatings before but not with the Behr brand. Mostly I've used the type that helps to waterproof exterior masonry. I have used a little of the roofing elastromeric but it was applied as part of a roofing process involving a membrane laid down in between coats. I've never used any on asphalt shingles. All the elastromeric coatings I've used have always been a white base. Can it even be tinted enough to give a black finish?
Originally Posted by marksr I've used elastromeric coatings before but not with the Behr brand. Mostly I've used the type that helps to waterproof exterior masonry. I have used a little of the roofing elastromeric but it was applied as part of a roofing process involving a membrane laid down in between coats. I've never used any on asphalt shingles. All the elastromeric coatings I've used have always been a white base. Can it even be tinted enough to give a black finish? Although I can't remember the exact product name, the elastometric I have used is made by Black Jack. It is intended as a roofing sealer. Applied in the correct thickness, it does that very well. It is black, and applied thinly with a roofing brush, it dries to a fairly thin coat. It could be paint. My problem with it is that it dries to a semi gloss. The stuff is sold at Lowe's, at least locally.
Tags: asphalt, roof, have used, elastromeric coatings, asphalt shingle, Black Jack, Originally Posted, roof paint, semi gloss, thinned down, always been, always been white, always been white base, always been white base even
Hi All, I'm Hoping someone can identify this Shower faucet model. Thought it was a Delta 600 as it has the same style faceplate but the internals are much different, it is a 2 inch pipe fitting, and the springs/seats are larger than anything I can find. See attached pictures (I think they are attached). Have scoured the web and had a plumber out but no luck so far. I really only need the springs/seats, but If I can find a repair/replacement kit number that would be ideal.
Hmmm...... Hi and welcome. You know I worked on hundreds of those and for the life of me cant remember or find the replacement cart. Its unique in that it has the heart shaped disk. It wood seem its a delta but I believe its a peerless/delta. Anyway there should be a part # somewhere on that cart. Take off the handle and look around. Its bugging me that now I need to know....LOL. Then you can just google it. You should get good results. I will poke around some and see what I could turn up. Post back what you find.
Unfortunately the allen socket is threaded and I can't get those pieces off to check for part numbers. There are two numbers on the plastic pieces in the attached picture, they are the two that basically lock together (B HP 4, and HP 3). This could be a replacement for a brand name, and not the OEM part numbers, the faceplate doesn't have any identifying marks on it.
What # is inside that trim plate? I am still looking. Have you found anything yet?
Just took it off an looked again, unfortunately, No part number on the trim-plate, just the reverse imprint of the H and C as seen from the outside. Haven't found anything yet, will post if I do. Thanks so much for all your time to date.
Got it. You know I worked on so many of these and it finally came to me. These faucets were common in mobile homes or manufactured home back in the day. The trim was white because it matched the walls. I believe RV's even used them. With that said its a Valley. They make old and new style you may need to match it up. I have not checked but I believe the repair kits are common at the home stores. Here is an amazon link. You may want to look around and compare packages if you find them locally. Not sure of the exact part you need. I hope this helps. Amazon.com: Valley Single Lever Cartridge: Tools Home Improvement
Also here is the handle chrome only that I can find. Kissler - 46-1989 Also a issue I see is finding the trim plate with the two screw holes at the top. Most valleys are at the bottom or offset. You know I am kind of stumped here now on what it is because of the trim plate.
Thanks so much for your research, I found this link which notes that you'd need to check to make sure the screw holes are on the bottom. But the parts look spot on. Lots of places to get the cartridges, not so many for the refurb kits. I will need pretty much everything if I want to replace parts other than the seals. Valley single handle shower replacement parts If you are ever in the manchester NH area look me up and I will by you lunch!
Yes and scroll down the the Q and A. Q. The Valley old style (before 1993) escutcheon shows the two mounting holes on the bottom but my existing escutcheon has the two holes on the top. How will this escutcheon work as a replacement for my Valley shower valve? A. The original old style escutcheons Valley provided with their valves had the screw holes at the top, above the center of the valve. In later years, and up to the present, the only Valley escutcheons made for replacements have the screw holes located below the center of the valve. The original brass rough-in shower valves (part behind the wall) were made with threaded mounting holes both at the top and the bottom but only the top holes were used. The replacement escutcheon will need to be screwed into the bottom threaded mounting holes. Since there is always a possibility the original valves may have not been threaded by mistake, you will need to check to make sure your valve has the available threaded holes to mount the escutcheon. Otherwise you will have to mount the escutcheon upside down. Thus, the temperature indicators will be wrong. If you are ever in the manchester NH area look me up and I will by you lunch! Next time I ride up to Laconia....LOL . Might be 3 years. I was just there 2010. Not that great anymore. Laconia lost its mojo, but I go every 5 years or so.
Tags: looking, model, number, shower, faucet, think, delta, screw holes, mounting holes, trim plate, will need
My son has a regular door in his room. But he also has a doorway into the laundry room that is 28 wide. We are wanting to put in a bi fold door there but only find 24 or 30 width doors. I had seen on a DIT-er show that you can cut it down but then filled in the gap....does anyone know make a 30 wide bifold door into a 28 door? We could do a regular door but then he would lose some space in his room and we need to keep all the space that we can. tia
Welcome to the forums. Of course the best way is to remove all the hardware (hinges, etc.) and run the edges through a table saw, removing 1/2 from each edge of each door panel. This would reduce the 30 door to a 28 door. But you would need to sand or round over the new edges to remove the sharpness created by the cut and to make it look better. Replace the hardware and hang it up. You can do it by hand, but if you could stop by a jobsite somewhere and find a friendly tradesman who has a saw set up, he would probably do it for you.
ya but, wouldn't the door be hollow?? how do i fill in the open end? i think what i saw them do, was cut off the unneeded amount and pop part of the ending off the cut off part and place it in the opening.....
Home depot has 28 inch bifold doors - http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125 Maybe you have to order them if they aren't in stock ?
you should definitly special order them. If they are not in stock somewhere, it would only take a week or 2 to get in. The problem with cutting them as much as you need to is, the wood on the sides is only about 3/4 thick, so if you cut 1/2, you'll still have 1/4 in the door, a pain to get it out, and not thick enuf to hold the hinges and hardware. Order them
In my mind I was thinking of the solid pine louvered ones, but y'all are right on the hollow core ones. And thought the 28's would be harder to find. Good call tribe fan.
Yeah, but you notice..those doors are online only. The stores carry 24, 30, 32, and 36. Don't ask me why, I had the same issue with that the 5 yrs i worked there. 28's are very common for closets and bathrooms...and I guess bedrooms in some areas. And the 30 pine louver doors, are only about 1 1/4 wide on the sides...so cutting them doesn't work real well. Be better off ordering...either online or in the store, depending on the style.
Originally Posted by tribe_fan Home depot has 28 inch bifold doors - http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...cStoreNum=8125 Maybe you have to order them if they aren't in stock ? I tried searching Home Depot's Web site and could not find the 28 inch doors. If they had them before, they no longer do.
It appears the 28 bi-folds are no longer an option at Home Depot. My situation is a laundry closet off the kitchen, with an irregular opening of 29 inches. The washer/dryer unit is 27 1/8 wide, so I can't reduce the width too much or the unit wont fit in/out. I'm thinking of trimming down a 30 bi-fold as one option. Does anyone know of a solid bi-fold door? Or, a sturdy, quality bi-fold door that is only a top track/mounitng hardware? I have a new ceramic floor that I'm hesitant about dirlling holes into. One possibility I've though of is trimming the bi-fold doors and then mounting hinges to the door frame which is very solid. The result would be like full height cafe doors. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Rich
Have you actually visited a store? Or just looked at the website? You should check and see if they can actually special order them from the store, to the size you need. It might cost $30-50 more..but you will have a full subframe and a warranty. Things may have changed, but 2 yrs ago I could order almost any width between 18 and 36 opening. You shouldn't have to drill into the tile for the bottom bracket, most times mounting it to the side of the frame is adequate.
Thanks Gunguy. I did visit the store -- and there are no 28 inch doors in stock. I'm going to go back and see if I can order the proper width tonight. Jeld-Wen was the manufacturer, so I'll see what my options are. I also contacted the manufactuer and they provided me with a couple other sources -- they do make a 28 width door. Could you elaborate on the mounting it to the side of the frame is adequate statement? I thought the bottom bracket was a pivot hole the door rested in. As I mentioned, if I can pull it off, I'm going to try using 2 panels and hinging them to the frame. If I can mount the bi-fold to the side frame, then I achieve the same goal. Thanks in advance, Rich
The bottom bracket on most doors is an L shape. It has mounting holes on the bottom and side legs. Normally just mounting through the 2 holes in the side leg is plenty. No reason to drill the tile. As to hinging them to the frame.... I think that will actually be more work and not as effective. You'd need to mortise in for the hinges (lot of very careful work) or use surface mount non-mortise..(kinda unattractive). If you hinge them, it will place all the weight on the screws in the door and frame. Using the track and bottom bracket puts the weight on the bottom bracket, and very little stress on the top pivot. Also easier to adjust and remove if required. Most makers will need the actual finished opening size. If they want exact specs on the size you want the door, just use the opening and actual sizes on the in-stock doors as examples for your calculations. (ie 2 panels of 29 1/2 total actual size fit a 30 opening) Remember you need a small gap at each side for the door to pivot. Also, when in the open position, you will lose about 3 of opening depending on the door panel thickness, so check your clearances for the washer and dryer doors.
Have you considered an accordian door? For a vinyl accordian that fits that door size you'll spend around 40 bucks. They carry them at Home Depot and they should be perfect for your situation.
If you want 28 bi-fold doors, get out of HD and Lowe's. Go to a lumberyard or a door shop. I needed a couple sets of them about a year ago and my favorite lumberyard had them for me in 3 or 4 days. Cost was about the same as what HD wanted for a set of 30.
Tags: width, bifold, door, bottom bracket, order them, Home Depot, order them they, side frame, them they, 8125 Maybe, 8125 Maybe have, 8125 Maybe have order, 8125 Maybe have order them, anyone know
I asked answerctr@exchange.appl.ge.com why GE had been reported as having more than double the Hotpoint incedence of repair. After all, Hotpoint is owned by GE. This was the reply: Thank you for visiting our GE website. I will be happy to assist you today. Consumers Union, which publishes Consumer Reports magazine, is an independent testing organization which has a strong policy against commercial use of its ratings. GE respects this policy and does not advertise or make comments on the ratings it achieves in Consumer Reports. If you need more information concerning any reports and how testing was conducted, please contact: Consumers Union 101 Truman Ave. Yonkers, NY 10703-1057 We appreciate your inquiry. Pleases don't hesitate to contact us whenever you need assistance. Have a nice day,.... Best Regards, Sharon GE Internet Response Team My best guess is that GE bought out Hotpoint but left its manufacturing personnel and facilities mostly intact to gain advantage of the Hotpoint credability. It even let Hotpoint keep its own name and logo instead of imposing its own. If you can clue me in, please do.
Hotpoint has been a GE division for decades, if not forever. Hotpoint is positioned as a value brand of the General Electric company. That means Hotpoint products are simpler and do not have the bells and whistles of GE branded products. Most Hotpoint and GE products are identical under the skin, its mostly cosmetics and the like that separate the product lines. The main reason Hotpoint products may test out as more reliable is that they are simpler and have less to go wrong, compared to fancier GE products. For example, possibly not as many Hotpoint refrigerators are sold with icemakers as GE refrigerators, and icemakers are a major trouble source with refrigerators. You will notice the same parallel with other brands. For example, Roper, which is Whirlpool's value brand, usually shows better reliability ratings in Consumer's Reports than Whirlpool's luxury brand, KitchenAide. Simpler products without all the bells and whistles have less go to wrong.
Hotpoint has always be manufacture by GE but they treat each as a separate company. It is like Chrysler and Dodge same manufacture but sold under different names.
I have found that it is much easier to find models with ice makers than without. Those with are readily found in the stores. Those without tend to be special order. Why anyone but a denmother or committed socialite would want an ice maker is beyond me. The unit and tray take away 1/4 of the freezer in a top freezer unit. Two ice trays take away much less and we raised four children using only two ice trays. Never ran short. I went to the Hotpoint site and looked at the 18 cubic foot units. All 7 gave the energy usage as 482 kWh/year. It is clear that none would qualify as an energy star and yet the MSRPs are in the energy star range. Where is the value? I went to the Roper site and looked at the 17.6 cubic foot units. The Roper was not even mentioned in the Consumer Reports graph of top freezer units. At 475 kWh/year the white (link to Silver energy guide got a page not found response) is also no energy star but the MSRP was lower than that of even the sale priced Whirlpool models I found while shopping. I had never even considered looking for a Roper. I have got to see if I can find a store where the unit can be physically seen in my area. I also have to see if the Whirlpool energy stars w/o icemakers are worth the price difference to us. Thank you very much
WappRecycler, the value brands are marketed to be less expensive and often sold through different channels than the parent company's flagship brands, ie, General Electric, Whirlpool, etc. Brands such as Hotpoint and Roper often tend to be marketed towards builders, and you'll find them frequenty in new homes and apartments. In order to hold costs down, they may not be built to be especially energy efficient. Their main reason for being is low first cost. The idea for motivating you to spend more money and move upscale to a pricier brand in the manufacturers lineup is to get things you can't find in their cheaper brands, like energy efficiency, more stylish looks, etc. This marketing ploy is what made Detroit -- GM would rather sell you a Buick than a Chevy, for example. I agree with you on icemakers. I have never owned one since I don't use much ice, but it is extremely hard to find a refrigerator, especially an upper-line model, without one.
We have new arrivals in the USA market from countries that have been much more energy conscious far longer than us. I wrote to Whirlpool requesting a means of decoding model numbers and the response was: We do not have a Model Decoder, so there is unfortunately nothing we can provide you with in regards to this. That is the kind of response I can accept from a politician, not a product manufacturer. It was also written that they no longer manufacture Whirlpool refrigerators in Mexico. That may be true but a salesperson in a chain store told me that a Whirlpool model that I was considering was made in Mexico. I take this to mean that, even if Whirlpool has stopped manufacture there, the models made in Mexico are still on the market. This is important to me because I had problems with 2 in-line on/off switches made in Mexico. The problem was solved by buying one made in China. I am not one to buy a refrigerator made in a country that cannot be relied on for an on/off switch. I think I should research imports for which Consumer Reports did not a give frequency of repair rating.
Tags: hotpoint, same, Consumer Reports, energy star, Hotpoint products, made Mexico, bells whistles, Consumers Union, cubic foot, cubic foot units, foot units, General Electric
I'm looking for a manual for a Crafstman Snowblower. It's model 536.886260. I check on google and it doesn't seem as if they are readily available. I couldn't find anything on Crafstman either. Ideally, a place where I could download one would be good, but even if I have to pay, it might be worth it depending on cost.
If You are looking for a owners manual, or parts, go to www.3sears.com. Punch in your model#, and you will get a break down of parts .... by mech. section........... Hope this helps...
That link doesn't take me to a sears web site. I got some entry form for something or other.
I believe the error was in the site as designated. use www3.sears.com.
Yea, I should have tried the www3, but I didn't think of it. Thanks. I think I'll dive into my issue before I order the manual though in case I need other parts. Anyone know of a place I can actually view the manual without ordering the paper copy? I'd like to have it as a reference, but I don't want 2 orders if I can help it.
chandltp; I believe; There are 10 kinds of people, those who understand binary and those who don't. Should be; There are 01 kinds of people, those who understand binary and those who don't. Have a good one. Geo
Geogrubb: Not that this is really related to the topic, but how do you figure it should be 01?
Originally Posted by chandltp Geogrubb: Not that this is really related to the topic, but how do you figure it should be 01? binary goes 1 2 4 8 16 32 64 128 256 etc so 1 0 =1 0 1 =2 1 1 =3 0 0 1 =4 1 0 1 =5 0 1 1 = 6 1 1 1 = 7 0 0 0 1 = 8 Have a good one. Geo
The Sears part number for the owners manual is F-001088J as found on their website using your model number and is less than $10, plus shipping, of course.
Originally Posted by geogrubb binary goes 1 2 4 8 16 32 64 128 256 etc so 1 0 =1 0 1 =2 1 1 =3 0 0 1 =4 1 0 1 =5 0 1 1 = 6 1 1 1 = 7 0 0 0 1 = 8 Have a good one. Geo All your numbers are backwards.. 256 128 64 32 16 8 4 2 1 Binary is read from right to left 01=1 10=2 11=3 100=4 101=5 etc.
Thanks for the information puey61. Looks like I may just have to bit the bullet and tear it down to see what's wrong without the manual and order the manual if needed. Otherwise, I'll order the manual with whatever parts I need. Maybe someone will be able to point me to a PDF online somewhere, but I think I'll plan on moving forward without it. I think the whole binary thing has already been worked out, so I won't comment on that again
Sorry, I know of no downloadable manual. But, also, I don't think this will help you out as it appears you have a service issue and not a simple adjustment. You can, however, look up parts on the Sears website and this may be enough to get you through your trouble. The owners manual is useless beyond minor adjustments and periodic simple maintenance. If you have an MTD produced unit then you would need MTD service manuals, if you have a Murray produced unit you would then need a Murray service manual and so on and so forth. And the engine will have yet another service manual depending on the make and model of the engine. You didn't post with your trouble, so perhaps we can help you out with your problems if you let us know.
I haven't done enough troubleshooting to be able to post any details about my problem. All I know is the auger isn't turning and the sheer pins are intact. I can turn the impeller with a stick and the augers turn. If I get stuck I'm sure I'll be back. I'm guessing a broken belt for the auger. However, I figured the manual would have the appropriate replacment part for that. If it not, then I was hoping the manual would have a parts view so I would know if anything was out of place.
Originally Posted by chandltp However, I figured the manual would have the appropriate replacment part for that. If it not, then I was hoping the manual would have a parts view so I would know if anything was out of place. You can view an Illustrated Parts List on the sears website that has already been mentioned.
Thanks Azis, I didn't notice that before. That should get me what I need once I find time to take it apart. I have the www3.sears.com bookmarked, that's a good source for anything sears it appears.
Sorry about the binary stuff, I was wrong. There are 10 kinds of people, those who admit they are wrong and those who don't. Have a nice one. Geo
No worries Geogrubb. You're not the first person who has questioned my signature.
Tags: snowblower, manual, manual would, manual would have, would have, Have good, kinds people, kinds people those, order manual, Originally Posted, owners manual, people those
I've decided to replace the windows on my house myself this summer. I've got a carpenter friend that has empowered me and will be helping me do the work. I went to Home Depot to check out their windows (Jeld Wen/ Anderson) and they seem fine. My question is to someone who has done the research or has experience in the matter. Which is the best brand of window to buy for the DIY group? My idea is to use the money I save by doing it myself and buying an upgraded window. Any advice on buying windows would be appreciated.
Most Pro's here have a pretty poor opinion of the 2 brands you noted. At least of their vinyl replacement windows. Andersen doesn't actually make the windows, they bought a company (Silverline) that had distribution through HD in the eastern part of the US. You didn't say if you were replacing the window frame and all or doing the replacement inserts? It would also help if you put a general location in your profile, as some peoples preferred brands may be regional.
Personal opinion is Simonton. You may want to call them directly for a local distributor.
I'm replacing the whole window, frame and all. Taking it down to the bare brick. I live in Chicago. Just came from Lowe's and saw their Pella's The vinyl replacement double hung looks decent
Never, ever, consider Pella. In 24 yrs as a remodeler, that is the brand I have had the most complaints about. Their service is terrible. IF you make it to the end of their warranty period, forget anything after that. As suggested above, those of us that do this for a living say, avoid big box, all of them. Andersen makes wonderful products, I recommend them often, but their recent acquistion of HD vinyl windows is not one of them.
Give a little more time to replys..this is not something you should rush. Are you set on solid vinyl windows? Does your friend install windows regularly? He should know a bit about different brands. Unfortunately there are several good regional brands that have gone under due to the economy. You have to ask yourself..how much money can I spend, how long will I be staying here, how much will the windows increase the appeal (not selling price) of my home. If I was building a new home..I would go with Andersen 400 series. I sold lots of the HD vinyl windows to people for flips and when they were on severe budget limitations (and I mean severe), but I wouldn't put the Silverline/Andersen/American Craftsman version in any house I was going to live in. They are better than a single pane 60 y/o wood window thats falling apart..but no comparison to some other offerings.
I've given the windows lots of thought and figured I'd save some money by doing it myself. Just got off the phone with the local shop that came out last year and measured the house. We decided on Simonton Windows. They will sell me the windows cash and carry but the savings isn't great. Of course they want to install them so my guess is they intentionally price the cash and carry window higher so the customer will just end up letting them do the install. I've seen their work and they do a fine job. Much better than anything I could do. My initial plan was to save money by replacing the windows myself. Seems like the question is becoming, is it worth it to install windows myself? factor in the time and the food and the $ I'd pay my friend, it makes you wonder... I'm looking at $400-450 per window installed. Cash and Carry about $350
If you havent already made your purchase try Norandex Distribution Inc 5755 Washington St, Denver, CO 80216 (303) 295-1372 I believe they are the Simonton distributor in Denver. as they are in other cities. With a little pursuation and cash, they may be willing to sell directly to you even if you are not a contractor. If you have trobulbe getting through to the counter person ask for the branch manager, they almost alway fold under pressure. Just make sure you have your exact sizes and sound like you know what you are talking about. When you buy wholesale, your mistakes are yours. A card laid is a card played.
I have just decided to replace windows as well. Our current windows are cheap tract homes built in the late 90s. Some don't won't close all the way so the latch never catches, others feel very drafty in the winder that it feels like there's a breeze when you sit by them. We had a guy come out to give a free estimate and they use Atrium/Superior Windows. They claim to have a lifetime warranty on the window (including accidental glass breakage) and the installation. 13 windows in all - 3 picture windows (non-moving), 4 double hung, 2 bathroom sliders and 4 regular sized sliders for $7000 including installation. Averages about $540 per window. These would be vinyl lowE energy efficient rated for the tax credit. Anyone know anything about this brand. I just started researching and also conferred with a friend who used to do windows many years ago. I was also thinking about the Renewal by Andersen windows (composite material), but he says that price will be almost double and is not worth the extra in SoCal. Please help me, I am thoroughly confused and is there another brand that I should be checking out? Someone also mentioned insulated glass like commercial buildings, but do they even manufacture these for residential use? Going to another window shop later today hopefully to get a better idea of what I need. Help Please!
You don't say where you are, or I missed it. East of the Miss., consider Viwinco. They made vinyl windows for Certainteed until they sold out to Metal Ind. They bought the license for eastern US. Excellent product, have used them for 18+ years.
Sorry I wasn't clear. I'm in sunny and hot Southern California.
Ok I knew I should have taken a picture but I left the stuff connected while I got two new capacitors and the prongs broke off and I have no idea wire the capacitors back up. The motor runs of 220v. It's a SpeedAire 5F563 and I think a Dayton motor. The motor has 3 wires coming out of it, then there are 3 I guess you would call them jumper wires. Then of course 3 capacitors. The compressor: The 3 wires coming out of the motor: The 3 capacitors and 3 jumpers: Does anyone know how these should hook up?
Did you get a magnetic starter for the motor or is it still running through the pressure switch? Also still on the 30A dryer circuit?
Originally Posted by ibpooks Did you get a magnetic starter for the motor or is it still running through the pressure switch? Also still on the 30A dryer circuit? No, no magnetic starter and yes it's running on the 30A dryer circuit. Do you know hook the capacitors up? From what I've seen this compressor never came with a magnetic starter, so I wouldn't know what to look for. It was running great but two of the original capacitors were broke, making the breaker trip when it tried the recycle on.
anyone? I'd like to get it hooked back up asap.
If there isn't a wiring diagram on the motor then I haven't a clue. Marc is pretty sharp with motors and their color-coded wiring and he may be able to help. Rarely is a magnetic starter included with a piece of motor-driven machinery but that does not negate the desirability of the starter. Unless the motor has a built-in overload protection system the starter IS required under the NEC. The 30 ampere branch circuit may also be contrary to code for this machine, especially without the starter.
Sorry for the delay to reply in here have few odd and ends to take care first now let get to the point. The run capaitors are wired in paralleled format { larger capaitors } while starting capaitor is smaller. This part will get tricky to deal due that motor not always have marked conductors for start and run capaitors. I will make a very rough example here O==O== to motour S= to motour O mean run capaitors S mean Start capaitor And you have three wire correct ?? If so one lead is common to both start and run capaitors And one lead will go to the run capaitors while other lead will be at start capaitor the shape of the conductor is allready forumed so it kinda pretty easy to tell which is which and look at the mounting band you will see the diffrence between the two. { the run capaitors are larger so they are designed to take cont useage } If you still have issue let us know asap one of us will make a drawing or call the Dayton tech support centre and they can send you a email of drawing on the connection as well if they have it. Merci. Marc
Originally Posted by french277V Sorry for the delay to reply in here have few odd and ends to take care first now let get to the point. The run capaitors are wired in paralleled format { larger capaitors } while starting capaitor is smaller. This part will get tricky to deal due that motor not always have marked conductors for start and run capaitors. I will make a very rough example here O==O== to motour S= to motour O mean run capaitors S mean Start capaitor And you have three wire correct ?? If so one lead is common to both start and run capaitors And one lead will go to the run capaitors while other lead will be at start capaitor the shape of the conductor is allready forumed so it kinda pretty easy to tell which is which and look at the mounting band you will see the diffrence between the two. { the run capaitors are larger so they are designed to take cont useage } If you still have issue let us know asap one of us will make a drawing or call the Dayton tech support centre and they can send you a email of drawing on the connection as well if they have it. Merci. Marc If you could draw me up something that would be great. Don't want to wire them wrong. I appreciate your help
This is how I understood it but you might want to wait for a Pro to approve it.
Ray that the one I am talking about and you got it right on the target. To OP., This the way it will work like that but only gotcha the motor leads not alway mark which one but if you want to make sure just grab the ohmmeter the running winding will read little higher on ohm scale than starting windings Once you ohm them then it will be easy to hook it up as the drawing what Ray provided in here. Merci. Marc
Could someone draw up a lil more detailed picture of hook them up. I'm not very good when it comes to electricity lol. The two black capacitors have 2 poles with 2 prongs on each pole. The silver start capacitor has 2 poles with 4 prongs each. The motor has 3 wires coming out from it, and then there are 3 smaller jumper wires I guess to jump from one capacitor to another.
You remind me of the story my daddy used to tell of the guy bumming cigarettes. The two tabs on each pole of the capacitors are for the convenience of attaching multiple wires. Use the jumper wires to connect the two larger capacitors to each other in parallel. From pole a of the first capacitor to pole a of the second capacitor. Do the same with pole b. Use the third jumper to connect pole a of the combined capacitors to pole a on the smaller capacitor. Identify the three leads from the motor with the ohmmeter as previously described. Connect the motor lead that has continuity with both the other leads to the combined pole a of all three capacitors. Connect the lead showing the higher resistance to the previous common lead (the one you connected to pole a of the three capacitors) to pole b of the larger capacitors (either of the two larger capacitors) and connect the remaining motor lead to the unconnected pole of the smaller capacitor. If you send me a first class airline ticket and limo service to/from the airports I'll come do it for you.
You really have two conection on each capacitor. Each connection has multiple places to put wires. If you post a picture of all your jumpers I may be able to give you a more precise picture. I see only two jumpers in the photo. Does this rendition help you?
I just hooked it up and blew one of the capacitors. Between 2 leads I read 0.4ohms and between 1 lead and each of the other 2 leads I'm reading 2.6ohms. Which is most likely to be the start lead?
Ok I took a better picture of the wires. We hooked up #1 as the Common We hooked up #2 as the Run We hooked up #3 as the Start This blew one of the capacitors. If we meter #2 and #3 against #1 and get 2.6ohms. If we meter #2 and #3 we get 0.4ohms. Which wires would be the Common, Run, and Start?
Assuming L1 is common try taling resistance reading from L2 instead to each of the three leads and tell us what you get. See diagram below.
Originally Posted by familyCJ7 I just hooked it up and blew one of the capacitors. Between 2 leads I read 0.4ohms and between 1 lead and each of the other 2 leads I'm reading 2.6ohms. Which is most likely to be the start lead? The 2.6 Ohms is running lead the .4 ohms is starting lead but something is not adding up right. take one ohmmeter lead from L1 or L2 and read at the capaitor leads it should ring it up and also can you tell me the numbers on the wires itself ?? I should able sort it out with numbers on it. Merci, Marc
Originally Posted by french277V The 2.6 Ohms is running lead the .4 ohms is starting lead but something is not adding up right. take one ohmmeter lead from L1 or L2 and read at the capaitor leads it should ring it up and also can you tell me the numbers on the wires itself ?? I should able sort it out with numbers on it. Merci, Marc Number 2 and 3 as pictured are the only ones with numbers. #2 has a one or E can't make it out #3 has a 10 or -0 and #1 has a bunch of writing down it but I couldn't make out any numbers.
Just give me a day I will call the Dayton tech support centre to verify and can you get the motor stock model number so I can get the correct wiring diagram. Merci. Marc
Originally Posted by french277V Just give me a day I will call the Dayton tech support centre to verify and can you get the motor stock model number so I can get the correct wiring diagram. Merci. Marc There is only one sticker on the motor, not sure if it's the model number or not. Here is a picture: In case it's hard to read it says: 24 84 F126/2092 MG1000G7
The MG1999G27 pulls up a Valdor VL 1309 1HP motor....is that correct? When I searched google for that it pulls up that motor. Everything else is fixed on the compressor, if I can get the correct wiring then I'll be set but I'm sorry about being such a novice at electrical stuff. But you have pictures of my diagram of how I had it wired when I blew the one capacitor. So if you can use that and how I have the wires lables 1,2 and 3 then it will make it a no brainer for me. I appreciate all your help, Nick
Was anyone able to figure out the capacitor wiring based off the sticker that was on the compressor motor? By the way I got the number wrong its MG1000G27 and it pulls up Baldor VL 1309 motor not Valdor. Sorry for the confusion.
Marc, I respect your Intelligence but you have the capacitors all backwards the Black capacitors are both start capacitors...they are black plastic...biggest clue..and they are high mfd...thats start...and the metal can is the run..... low mfd... thats pretty much universal some modern run capacitors are plastic and some modern starts are metal but as a rule of thumb Black circle Plastic...above 60 mfd ...start... metal...oval circle or plastic box....under 30 mfd Run his starts are 259 mfd those need to be wired in parallel and to the start relay and the opposing wire . the run capacitor will connect directly from run to start as for the connections we need to know what drops out the start winding... centrifugal switch? ptc relay potential relay or a current relay Ben Certified HVAC-R technician HVAC Maintenance Mechanic
Originally Posted by braether3 Marc, I respect your Intelligence but you have the capacitors all backwards the Black capacitors are both start capacitors...they are black plastic...biggest clue..and they are high mfd...thats start...and the metal can is the run..... low mfd... thats pretty much universal some modern run capacitors are plastic and some modern starts are metal but as a rule of thumb Black circle Plastic...above 60 mfd ...start... metal...oval circle or plastic box....under 30 mfd Run his starts are 259 mfd those need to be wired in parallel and to the start relay and the opposing wire . the run capacitor will connect directly from run to start as for the connections we need to know what drops out the start winding... centrifugal switch? ptc relay potential relay or a current relay Ben Certified HVAC-R technician HVAC Maintenance Mechanic Could you explain more in laimens terms, I'm not an electrician and what you wrote might as well have been a foreing language...lol
as for the connections we need to know what drops out the start winding... centrifugal switch? ptc relay potential relay or a current relay What does this mean? What do I need to look for? I'm not sure if you have looked at all the pictures posted. The thing is turned on by the pressure switch. I explained one way I wired it, it ran but blew one of the start capacitors fast so something was hooked up wrong, but close because it did start and run.
well to put it simply your black capacitors are start capacitors and they get wired in parallel your run capacitor is the metal oval... tell me what your wires are labeled and can prolly fiqure this out...
I did left a message to the motour company and they should return the calll pretty soon once I get them and we will go from there. Ben., Humm that instering but if that the case then you are right but the last large single phase motour I did it was a big 15 HP unit that have 3 run capaititours and 3 large start capaitours it was little tricky to deal that one. Merci. Marc
Originally Posted by braether3 well to put it simply your black capacitors are start capacitors and they get wired in parallel your run capacitor is the metal oval... tell me what your wires are labeled and can prolly fiqure this out... I wish I could tell you what they are labeled but they aren't readable. One has a 0 over a dash and the other 2 are unreadable but have a bunch of writing going all the way down the wire.
Originally Posted by french277V I did left a message to the motour company and they should return the calll pretty soon once I get them and we will go from there. Merci. Marc Thanks, I appreciate all your help!
Ever hear back about the capacitor wiring Marc?
Originally Posted by familyCJ7 Ever hear back about the capacitor wiring Marc? Not yet but I should getting the reply anytime by now if not I will give them a buzz to see what is going on. Merci. Marc
I found this.... if it helps. I can't make heads or tails of it. Seems like diagrams of the motor though. Baldor VL1309
Can you please fix the link due some of the members can not able open it up. Merci. Marc
Link does work for me. Here is the wiring diagram from the link:
Thanks for posting that up... does it help at all?
You will need to wait for Marc or one of the other pros but that diagram, unless I'm blind, shows only a start capacitor. Where did mention of a run capacitor originate.
Thank Ray for posting it up however with that diagram that is not a correct one due the OP did have both start and run capaitors and I did call the companine again and I will get a reply withen 12 hours. { I am in Paris France time zone } Merci. Marc
Plus, that is a diagram for a two-speed motor and is not applicable to the question at hand. CJ, did you ever do the ohmmeter tests to determine the motor connections?
Originally Posted by furd Plus, that is a diagram for a two-speed motor and is not applicable to the question at hand. CJ, did you ever do the ohmmeter tests to determine the motor connections? Furd that is not a two speed motor as Ray posted on the fourm that is dual voltage CSIR the quickest giveway is the main winding connections. Merci. Marc
Mods I was only re-posting from other peoples posts. I did not verify if they were applicable. If they are wrong please delete.
Okay, Marc, I just saw the single start winding and two run windings and made the assumption it was a two-speed. The image isn't too clear on my fast-dying laptop screen. I'd still like to know if CJ7 did the ohmmeter tests to identify the motor leads.
Tags: capacitor, motor, hook, capacitors, speedaire, 5f563, compressor, Merci Marc, Originally Posted, both start
The Moen company produces many different faucet designs for sinks and showers. Many of these designs use handle hubs, which are essentially decorative pieces by which the faucet's lever handle attaches to. Unlike other faucet designs, whereby the faucet valve can be accessed by simply removing the handle, these designs require the lever handle and the hub to be removed. Thankfully, doing so is a fairly simple task, as both the lever handle and the handle hub are only hand tightened onto the faucet assembly.
Turning the Water Supply Off
Whether removing a Moen handle hub from a sink or shower faucet assembly, it is necessary to first turn off the water supply. This is because the handle hub must be twisted in a counterclockwise direction to be removed, which is the same direction used to turn the faucet on. If removing the hub from a sink, the water supply can be turned off at the water supply valves located underneath the sink. There are two water supply lines, each with an integral handle. Turn both handles in a clockwise direction to turn off the sink's water supply. If removing the handle on a shower assembly, the water supply must be turned off at the main shutoff valve. The valve is located next to the water meter at the exterior of the structure, and must be twisted in a clockwise direction.
Removing the Lever Handle
Moen's handle hub features a lever handle that screws into the side of the hub itself. To remove the lever handle, simply twist the handle in a counterclockwise direction. Some Moen handles feature a colored ring that fits between the seam of the lever handle and the handle hub. A red ring is used to denote the hot water handle, while a black ring indicates that the handle controls the flow of cold water. When the lever handle is removed from the hub, this ring will be loose, so take care not to loose it.
Removing the Handle Hub
The lever handle is hand tightened into the handle hub, the handle hub is hand tightened onto the faucet assembly. To remove the hub, simply twist the hub in a counterclockwise direction until it can be lifted off of the faucet assembly.
Sinus infections cause pain, pressure and congestion.
Sinus infections are painful and cost Americans about $5.8 billion each year in health care costs. There are about 32 million cases of chronic sinusitis reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention per year. If you are suffering from a sinus infection, there are home remedies and over-the-counter medications that might to help relieve some of that pressure and pain.
The Facts
A sinus infection occurs when the nasal and sinus membranes swell because of allergies, viruses and bacteria. People suffering from a sinus infection might experience pain and pressure, nasal congestion and a thick, yellowish-green nasal discharge.
Home Remedies
One of the most popular home remedies for a sinus infection is apple cider vinegar. Apple cider vinegar thins out the mucus quickly, offering fast relief. Put 2 tbsp. in 8 oz. of water and drink it all down at once. You should notice a big difference in your congestion if you do this several times a day for two to three days. Other home remedies for sinus infections include hydrogen peroxide, cayenne pepper, grapefruit seed extract and oregano oil.
Over-the-Counter Medications
Nasal saline sprays work by thinning out the nasal secretions and removing infectious agents from the nose. Medicated nasal sprays clear nasal passages immediately, but you should only use them for up to five days because prolonged use can have an adverse effect and make swelling and congestion worse. Decongestants relieve pressure, congestion and nasal swelling by reducing blood flow to the nasal membranes. Antihistamines help allergy-related congestion, reducing symptoms such as sneezing, itching, nasal congestion and drainage. Ask your pharmacist to recommend the best over-the-counter medication for your particular sinus symptoms.
When to See Your Doctor
Over-the-Counter sinus infection treatments are best for short-term use. If you have a sinus infection that won't go away, you might be suffering from chronic sinusitis. Your doctor will likely prescribe a steroid nasal spray, long course antibiotics or oral steroids to help relieve your sinus symptoms. If medications don't help, you might need surgery to completely get rid of your chronic sinus infections. The surgery is usually performed through the nose, and consists of removing polyps, enlarging the sinus openings and correcting any deformities that might make the obstruction worse.
Your Wayne Dalton door sensors may need to be cleaned.
A Wayne Dalton garage door has sensors that automatically open and close the door via an electronic garage door opener. These sensors can fail due to a number of reasons, such as path obstruction, dirty sensor lenses and a garage opening unit that needs to be reset. You can troubleshoot and fix all these issues even if you have no experience with garage door repairs.
Instructions
1. Press the Open/Close button on the garage door and hold it down to force the door to close if the sensors have malfunctioned. This may bypass the sensors and allow the door to close and fix the issue.
2. Ensure there is nothing blocking the path of the garage door sensors. These sensors are located near the bottom of each side of the garage door's opening. If there is anything blocking these sensors, remove the object(s) to restore normal operation.
3. Clean the eyes, or lenses, of the sensors with a soft, damp cloth. Dry the sensor lenses after cleaning them. Dirty sensors may mistakenly sense there is an obstruction in the way and react accordingly by not allowing you to close the garage door.
4. Reset the garage door sensors by unplugging the garage door remote open/close unit from the power outlet it is plugged into. Plug it back in and attempt to open/close the door again. The sensors should be reset and allow the door to operate normally once again.
Replacing your Moen faucet yourself will save you time and money.
The Moen 7400 series of kitchen faucets features single-handle kitchen faucets available in a wide variety of designs. As a corporation, Moen is famous for its single-handle faucets, with the first one being developed by company founder Al Moen in 1937. Unfortunately, even the best faucets will eventually wear out and need to be replaced. While you can call a plumber to do the job, that will take time and cost money. There is no reason anyone with the ability to use a wrench and a little guidance can't replace her ailing 7400 series faucet herself.
Instructions
1. Reach under your kitchen sink and locate the shutoff valves for your hot and cold water supplies. Close the valves to shut off the water to your kitchen faucet. Turn the faucet on to expell any water still trapped in the lines. Get comfortable as you will be spending most of your time under the sink.
2. Unscrew the water lines from the faucet supply tubes, using your adjustable wrench. The tubes hang down below the underside of the sink. If your old 7400 faucet has been in place for awhile the nuts on the water lines may be corroded in place. If so use a penetrating oil to loosen the nuts before unscrewing them. Once they are disconnected, just lay the water lines down on the bottom of your kitchen sink.
3. Remove the retaining nut holding the faucet in place. Most models in the 7400 series have a single nut attaching the faucet to the sink. It is on the underside of the sink, in between the water supply tubes. Unscrew the nut, again using penetrating oil if needed, and remove it. Some models in the 7400 series also use a deck plate between the nut and the sink. If your model has one, remove the deck plate as well. It may be helpful to use a basin wrench as well, as it will allow you to reach up and behind the sink if need be.
4. Slide the faucet out of its mounting holes in the top of the sink. Remove the rubber gasket that rests between the faucet and the sink. Discard your old 7400 faucet and thoroughly clean the mounting area on your sink.
5. Place a small amount of plumber's putty around the area where you will be installing the new faucet. This will help create a watertight seal. Place the rubber gasket on over the mounting holes and slide the new faucet through the mounting holes. Turn the faucet spout to one side to prevent the faucet from tipping forward while you are attaching the nut underneath the sink.
6. Climb under the sink and replace the deck plate and retaining nut. Reconnect the water supply lines. On the 7400 series the hot water line connects to the left supply tube on the faucet. If you are replacing your old 7400 with a different model, refer to that model's documentation to see which tube is the hot water supply. Open the shutoff valves and turn the faucet on to ensure it is working properly.
Tips Warnings
Always remember to shut off the water supply or you will have a wet kitchen.
Replacing a faucet requires being on your back in cramped area for extended periods. People with bad or injured backs should hire professional help to have their faucets replaced.
Change your toothbrush every three months to keep your mouth healthy.
Gingival swelling has many causes, including viral or fungal infection, lack of nutrition, poor-fitting dentures, tooth decay and scurvy. As gums enlarge, they cause pain and discomfort, especially when you are eating. Swollen gums may also bleed and could be a sign of gingivitis or periodontal disease. Practicing healthy dental habits should help reduce the swelling.
Instructions
1. Follow good oral hygiene practices. Brush your teeth at least twice daily, using a soft-bristled toothbrush and toothpaste that protects against gingivitis. Floss at least once daily.
2. For immediate relief, gargle with a glass of warm water and lemon juice or with warm salt water. Swirl the liquid around your dental cavity for at least 30 seconds.
3. Clean your hands thoroughly and massage your gums with your fingertips. The motion will increase blood circulation to the area.
4. Practice healthy eating habits and consume enough Vitamin C. Vitamin C deficiency contributes to gum disease. The recommended daily amount is between 5,000 and 10,000 mg.
5. Schedule professional dental cleanings and examinations every six months.
6. Avoid tobacco and alcohol, which irritate the gums.
Tips Warnings
Gargling with hydrogen peroxide is also effective in reducing gum swelling.
Visit a dentist if you are experiencing bleeding, severe discomfort or any other signs of gingivitis.
Avoid commercial mouthwashes if they cause irritation.
Although people don't often look directly at your neck, neck wrinkles can make your face look older.
When people get to a certain age the skin on the neck -- the thinnest skin of the body -- begins to pucker and sag and turn into wrinkles. Even some people without wrinkles on their faces have wrinkled necks that make them look older. To effectively maintain a younger looking neck, use anti-aging creams and exercise the area before wrinkles become a problem. If age and gravity have already created unsightly wrinkles, you can take steps to make your neck skin look younger.
Instructions
1. Perform exercises specifically for the neck area to get rid of the wrinkles. Sit on a chair, tilt your head back, stare at the ceiling and close your eyes. Start chewing. Feel how the skin on your neck tightens. In the same sitting position, pucker your lips and try to kiss the ceiling. Stick out your tongue and try to touch your chin with it.
2. Treat your neck with the same creams and sunscreens your use on your face. While people spend considerable money on expensive facial creams to avoid wrinkles, they don't often bother to extend the benefits of creams to the neck area. Also, investigate buying creams made specifically for the neck area.
3. Practice perfect posture. Hold your head high and the skin on the neck automatically stretches. Pretend a cord from the sky holds your head in place and your wrinkles will diminish. Avoid looking at the ground and sagging your shoulders, as this position accentuates the wrinkles of the skin on your neck. Adjust your computer screen so that you don't have to look down at it.
4. Treat any age spots on your neck, as they draw attention to your wrinkles. Use a lightening cream on the area of hyper-pigmentation. High levels of glycol acid will also reduce the brown spots. Another natural ingredient, liquorice extract, can also work.
5. Stop smoking. In addition to contributing to wrinkles and puckers around the lips, smoking can lead to neck skin looking older. The thin skin of the neck suffers damage first.
6. Exercise regularly. A healthy general exercise program stimulates blood circulation to all areas of the body, including the neck.
7. Maintain a healthy diet. Eat foods high in antioxidants and take Omega 3 supplements. Take C and E vitamin pills to supplement your diet as needed.
Tips Warnings
If your neck looks old and it bothers you, start wearing scarves and cover it up.
Wolverine work boots can last longer if the soles stay in good shape.
Work boots are made to provide you with a secure, heavy-duty fit. This allows you to work without the damage or wear and tear that regular boots have when worn through intensive daily wear. The surface of your soles may become slippery over time even though the rest of your shoe is still in good shape. You can avoid buying new shoes by finding ways to repair the slippery sole.
Instructions
1. Attach slip-resistant pads to the bottom of the soles. This is a method used when you do not want to alter the surface of your shoe with scuffs or scratches. The pads have a rough surface on one side and an adhesive side on the other to stick to your shoe. Position the pads to make sure they fit the sole. You may have to cut them to fit. Peel back the adhesive sheet and attach it to the shoe sole.
2. Spray hairspray on the soles of your shoes. This is a temporary fix but it is an option if you do not want to damage your shoes with sandpaper. Avoid using sprays that are heavily scented. Inexpensive hair sprays work well. Look for sprays that market themselves as having extra hold.
3. Scratch the bottom of your shoes with sandpaper. The rougher the grade the better. A medium-grit sandpaper is No. 80 to 120. A very course grit is No. 40 to 60. Your decision should be based on the surface of your shoe. If you have a softer rubber the medium grit may be able to scratch the surface. Harder rubber requires course grit. Lightly buff the sole of your shoe. Don't make deep disfigurations in your shoe. Just scuff it up enough to create a surface that doesn't slip anymore. Try your shoes on and test for slip after a few passes of the sandpaper and until it appears that you have reduced the slip.
4. Cut into the soles with an knife or thin blade. Take the knife and score marks on the center of your soles from top to bottom. This should be enough but if you try on the shoes and they still seem slippery, carefully slice more marks across the marks you've just made. These marks should go from right to left.
Tips Warnings
Choose a style of Wolverine work boot that has a slip-resistant sole.
Appropriate motorcycle gear is sometimes the only thing separating your skin from the road. You should always purchase high-quality gear and maintain it well so that your body is protected when riding your bike. Motorcycle boots are one of the key pieces of motorcycle gear, and the item subjected to the most wear by virtue of walking and riding. The method for cleaning motorcycle boots differs for finished and unfinished leather boots.
Instructions
Finished Leather
1. Squeeze a couple of drops of mild, liquid soap onto a soft, damp rag and rub the rag together to create lather.
2. Rub the boots with the rag, taking care not to force water into the leather.
3. Remove the lather with a clean, damp rag and shine the boots with a dry rag.
Unfinished Leather
4. Rub saddle soap into the boots using a soft, damp rag or sponge. Rub in a circular motion until the soap lathers on the boots.
5. Remove the lather with a clean, damp rag and place in an open area so the boots can dry.
6. Treat and seal the boots with a commercial leather sealant. Be careful not to get the sealant on metal buckles.
Tips Warnings
Leather conditioner helps prevent cracks and splits in the leather's surface. Buffing finished leather with pantyhose creates a fabulous shine.
Do not use soap on suede. Use a suede brush to clean suede boots.
Ornamental plaster pieces are sometimes used around light fixtures, wall sconces and other features to create a more stylish and fanciful look. The pieces, when put in place, look as if they are carved or molded in place, but are generally stuck to the surface with joint compound. You must take care when installing the plaster, so that it does not fall and break before it adheres.
Instructions
1. Locate where you want the ornamental plaster piece. If you want it centered on the wall, measure the wall to pinpoint the center.
2. Drill holes in the plaster piece if it does not already come with them. These holes are for bolts or screws, depending on the weight of the piece. If the decoration is less than 1 lb., screws are fine. If it is heavier, bolts are better. For small pieces of 6 oz. or less, you do not need support screws. Drill holes slowly.
3. Hold the decorative plaster to the ceiling or wall in its proper location and mark the drill holes' locations. Remove the plaster piece and drill pilot holes if you are using bolts.
4. Spread joint compound on the back side of the ornamental plaster piece and place it against the wall or ceiling in its position.
5. Screw in the bolts or screws for safety support. The compound dries and holds the piece in place; the hardware ensures that if it ever comes loose, it doesn't fall on someone.
6. Wipe around the edges of the ornamental piece and to remove excess compound that oozes out. Wiping it against the edge of the piece to seal and hide the edge so that it looks as if the piece was built in place.
7. Fill in the drill holes with a plaster patch. Let it dry, then sand it smooth.
Geologists study the earth's components and processes to understand its composition. These professionals can specialize in one or several geological disciplines such as petroleum, sediments, fossils or minerals. A geologist III is a geologist with at least four years of professional experience in the field of geology. In May 2010, the Bureau of Labor Statistics estimated the salary of a geologist III.
Salary
Approximately 31,000 geoscientists, including geologists in a variety of disciplines, were working in the United States in 2010. Employers require at least a bachelor's degree in a geological discipline for this occupation, but many geologists obtain a master's degree to increase job opportunities. The average salary for a geologist was $93,380 per year.
Variations
Salaries vary based on factors including the employer type, type of research the geologist is performing and the location of the job. Because a geologist III has several years of professional experience in the field, he often figures in the Bureau's 50th through 90th percentiles. The median salary was $82,500 per year in 2010. The 75th percentile of geologists earned $115,460 per year, and the 90th percentile earned over $160,910 per year.
Industries
Geologists work in industries including state and federal government agencies, consulting services, oil and gas extraction, and architectural and engineering service organizations. The highest employment levels were in the architectural, engineering and related services industry, where geologists earned an average salary of $80,460 per year. State government agencies paid an average salary of $62,880 per year, and federal government agencies paid an average salary of $95,580 per year. The oil and gas extraction industry paid the highest wages, where geologists earned an average salary of $132,210 per year.
Location
Geologists work in almost every state in the country, with the highest employment levels in Texas, California, Colorado, Oklahoma and Pennsylvania. In California, the average salary was $84,480 per year and in Pennsylvania, the average salary was $67,860 per year. The highest wages were in Oklahoma, where the average salary was $129,870 per year and in Texas, where the average salary was $125,070 per year. In Alaska, which had the highest concentration of geologist jobs by location quotients, the average salary was $103,880 per year.
A pilonidal cyst is an abnormal area in the skin nearly always located at the tailbone and over the buttocks. Although this disorder is commonly called a cyst because it looks like one, technically the growth does not have the cellular structure of a true cyst. A pilonidal cyst often does not cause problems, but may become infected. An infected pilonidal cyst causes pain and other symptoms, and requires treatment to avoid complications.
Identification
Pilonidal cysts are more common in men than in women and typically occur between 15 and 24 years of age, according to the Mayo Clinic. A pilonidal cyst can develop if the individual is born with a thin depression or tract at the tailbone, or if a loose hair penetrates the skin and causes an irritated reaction. These cysts can accumulate more loose hairs, skin debris and dirt over time that lead to infection, particularly if the area is not thoroughly cleaned every day.
Risk Factors
Certain risk factors can make the occurrence or infection of a pilonidal cyst more likely. A lifestyle that involves sitting most of the time, obesity, friction on the area from tight clothing, excessive body hair, stiff or coarse body hair, excessive perspiration and poor hygiene all contribute to the occurrence of pilonidal cysts.
Symptoms
An infected pilonidal cyst causes pain in the tailbone area and over the lower spine, sometimes severe. Swelling and reddening of the area also may develop, along with drainage of pus or blood that can have a foul order. The individual may be able to see hair protruding from the cyst.
Medical Treatment
An infected pilonidal cyst must be treated to avoid complications, which may even lead to skin cancer, according to the Mayo Clinic. Initial treatment involves a doctor lancing the abscess while the patient is under local anesthesia. The doctor drains the fluid, and removes hair and other debris. About half of patients do not need further treatment, according to the Mayo Clinic, but surgery is required if the area continues to become infected. The physician also may prescribe antibiotics.
Pain Relief
To relieve back pain after pilonidal cyst treatment, soaking in a warm bath may be advised, and the bath may be medicated, according to the University of Michigan Health System. The doctor also may recommend taking acetaminophen (Tylenol) or a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug such as ibuprofen (Advil) to relieve pain.
Looking for help with similar problem! I have installed an Aprilaire model 500 Humidifier with the Digital model 60 Auto Controller on an old furnace. The furnace has none of the modern terminal strips or for that matter nothing is even labeled on it. It’s very simple with no Air, just a basic old furnace. The installation went well then came the wiring nightmares. I acquired an Aprilaire model 50 Current sensing Relay and installed the 24v transformer independent of the furnace power. The problem begins with all of the different wiring instructions provided with the equipment. The Aprilaire model 50 Current sensing Relay instructions diagram show the following terminal connectors; R-C : Power from 24v transformer (then jump R to W/G and jump C to Cf) H-H : one wire runs direct from humidifier, one wire runs to Aprilaire model 50 Current sensing Relay and then to humidifier ODT : 2 wires from outdoor sensor (this is the only thing that makes sense) The problem is the the Aprilaire Digital model 60 Auto Controller’s terminals are not labeled the same. They have the R-C A-B ODT W-G H-H Gf. I have tried every possible scenario that I can dream up with no results. The unit is powered and reading humidity and the bottom green light is on, but that's it. Has anybody had success with such a installation?
what make and model number of furnace do you have? From there we can provide wiring help.
The furnace is a Luxaire, model number GCU110AF
ok. its really pretty simple, you dont need the current sensing relay with this humidistat. I recommend turning off the blower activation switch
Nice diagram. Now my question now is where on this furnace do I find the Furnace Control Board?
usually in the blower compartment
Thanks for your input. They say a picture is worth... you know what I mean. So I have uploaded a few pictures to the following link. Luxaire Furnace pictures by jamesb53 - Photobucket I must have not been clear in my original post, I will attempt to state it again. This is an old furnace, possibly 40 years old. The furnace does not have a Control Board or any kind of terminal strips. Also none of the few connections in it have any type of label designating what they are used for. I believe that this could be easy if this application was on a furnace that has the described terminals and control board but seeing that it does not makes this a little bit more challenging.
what color wires do you have, Low voltage, from the t-stat? You can use my previous picture just use the color wires if they are the same as what I have in the picture. W= white= call for heat R=red=24v hot C=blue=24v common (ground of the furnace) You may not have this wire going to the stat. G=green=call for fan
I have 2 black wires coming from the House thermostat. They connect to the 24v transformer in the furnace. The transformer is wired to the Red 110v coming from the Fan Limit and the common from the furnace power. I don't have anything that resembles a G=green call for fan.
Thank you, it worked! After trying all four of the supplied wiring options form Aprilaire, another several possibilities I found online and even input from my local Heating and Cooling company you provided the only correct directions. Thanks again.
No problem, that's what I do. Wait till you see my bill!!! :)
In the wiring diagrams shown in this thread how do I tell if the wires are just passing by one another or if they are connected?
Logically the top yellow wire would not connect to the same white wire twice. No, they do not connect. It is a simple, fast drawing. You are better off starting your own thread as most need to be wired specific to your system.
thanks I appreciate your help
Tags: wiring, aprilaire, auto, digital, humidifier, control, model, Aprilaire model, Aprilaire model Current, Aprilaire model Current sensing