Wood pellet boiler w/o backup?

Hello! New guy here. I took a look through the forums but didn't see this previously discussed so... My home has an oil boiler (sized right? don't know, will look into that). I know it won't last too many more years, so I'm trying to figure out what to replace it with. I'm interested in using a wood pellet boiler but in my web searches so far they always seem to be used with a fossil fuel backup boiler. Having to maintain two separate boilers fuel sources is not appealing from both a cost space used perspective. The only reason I've found given for the backup is going on extended vacations and running out of pellets since the storage bins auto-feeders one can get can't hold enough pellets for very extended periods of time. Are there any others? Because that one isn't enough to discourage me and make me get gas to the house instead. Thanks! Check these out. They can be conected to a suply auger and run for a long time. Harman Stoves | HydroFlex 60 Pellet Boiler Peter Welcome to our forums! Where I am pellet fuel is viewed as a novelty heating source. Forced air is more common heating method and I have not come across a pellet boiler but there seems to be a common problem with older pellet stoves in requiring more maintenance than common fuel heating types. I have seen supply problems, pellet price fluctuations because pellet prices are not regulated and a couple of years ago a supplier's pellets somehow was too wet and caused burning problems. If you were set on installing pellet fueled heat an option is to install a small electric boiler connected in series as a back up to the pellet boiler. Almost forgot, there is also the Pellergy. I believe these work quite well. Pellergy - Manufacturer of wood pellet central heating system | Products Peter I wouldn't consider a pellet stove unless I lived in a part of the country that had truckload delivery available, and room to place a storage silo for the bulk delivery. Running out to a store every week or two to pick up a trunk or truck load of 40-50 pound bags of pellets, hoping they had enough on the shelf, hauling them into the house, etc, etc, would get old for me VERY quickly. But that's just me... your mileage may differ. Hello, I lived on an island up in northern Canada for about a decade. Over the years I have used most every type of heating. I also should let you know that I once serviced boiler systems for a career. The best advice I could offer for both affordability and user friendliness is to use a modern wood stove that uses both real fire wood as well as pellets plus has the after-burner built for burning off any residue in the smoke. Wood stoves provide heat even without any electrical supply and that is what I found to be a major concern as well. I hope I have helped somehow. Good luck. You can buy bagged pellets in bulk on a pallet. My sister-in-law does this. They get one delivery per year. They do have to haul it upstairs to the stove though. I've seen combination boilers that use wood and have a fossil fuel back up all in one package. I'll see if I can dig that up on the net. This one doesn't burn pellets by regular wood.: Multi fuel furnace from TARM Biomass offers flexibility in heating Search for dual fuel boilers. Even multi-fuel. I'm sure there is something out there. In any event, switching to gas will save a chunk of change over oil. If you take the cost per therm of gas in your area and multiply it by 1.38, that will give you a per btu cost comparison with oil. For example, I pay about $1.25 per therm for natural gas. For the same amount of btu's I get in one gallon of fuel oil, it would cost me $1.73 for gas. It may pay when you buy bulk. I buy normally 12 bags a year to use just for kicks. I paid $3.95 a bag. When in use I burn 2 bags in 24 hours of operation. I cannot break out my heat pump from the electric bill. The electric bill for the home is less than $8 a day. If I wanted to heat totally from pellets my heating cost would be higher than I pay for the heat pump plus cleaning after every ton of pellets. I've seen a few different systems out there. You can get a storage tank with auto-feed augur that holds 1000 lbs. so you aren't filling it every day. The company that sells that said in very cold weather it would last about a week for my size home. You can also buy pellets by the pallet in my area. I have friends with pellet stoves that do so. (I'm thinking of a pellet *boiler* since my house has hot water baseboard. Not adding forced air without major expense.) So it seems like there isn't any magic reason that one needs a fossil fuel back up. I'll move on to looking into actual systems that one can buy now. Thanks! So let's see... if the bags are 50 lb each, then it would take 20 bags to fill the hopper... for a week? I think I would quickly regret my decision to switch to pellets. But then, I'm a lazy sot. Do investigate the Pellergy systems. These guys deliiver bulk pellets to silo's. They are not ijn my area...yet The technology exists. Just not a huge market so far. Bulk wood pellet fuel home delivery : Maine Energy Systems No lifin no luggin no nothin except ash clean out. Peter Oh ya. If you have access to naturlal gas. IMO it is probably less expensive to heat with.

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Which caulk is best???

Is there any one caulk substance that is so much better than the others? I have wasted more than several hours trying to find info rather than post this here Now. I was going to use mapei sanded matching grout, but have seen some really bad caulk shrinkage... like a nightmare. (siliconized acrylic?) It seems like siliconized acrylic is the standard, but that it totally sucks, and 100% silicone is the way to go, at a mild sacrifice for color. There is sanded silicone, but it seems very limited? I will be caulking the corners and the tub line... (although I wish it all could be grouted.) Does Clear Silicone look good. (I am using a light grey shade of sanded grout with boost.) As a painter I rarely use any sanded grout but I wonder if the cracking/shrinkage you see is more of an application error rather than product failure. For painting a siliconized acrylic caulk is usually best but for caulking areas that tend to get wet you are usually better off with a full silicone caulk [not paintable] IMO a color matched [or close] caulk would look better than clear. You should caulk all changes of plane. That is your corners where 2 walls of tile meet. That being said if you grout the corner joints, the worst that will happen is they may develop a hairline crack. My recollection here is that you used wedi. If thats the case, and you used wedi's sealant, the worst that could happen is that the grout could get a hairline crack in it. Probably not even visible to the eye unless you really look close. The wedi board would prevent any water from making its way through to the framing so no problems really. As to the tile tub joint caulk it with 100% white silicone caulk. If you dont caulk this joint you will have problems guarnteed. Just finished the tile and clean up a little while ago. Unfortunately we have some grout lines that are 1/16. All the others are 1/8 and we are using sanded grout. Do you think I will be able to grout those few lines??? You will be able to get sanded grout into a 1/16 joint, not problem. I plan on grouting the whole niche. This is a plastic niche in a solid frame built with extra studs and long woodscrews. Hopefully this will be ok? Hi, For Caulking the tub and tile line; Please tell me if this is a good or bad idea? Hi, I have tried to make the caulk lines as small as possible in the past, and feel less is better to a point. If the bead is sealed against the wall-face side of the tile (left diagram,) then it would seem if any of the edge got loose, the water would try to go behind the bead, while if the top edge of the silicone bead was just below the tile against the small side edge(just like the grout,) then the water would be more likely to roll over the caulk... like shingles on a roof. I only have one chance to get it right; Is it better to try and caulk a shower like the example on the right? The red is, of course the surface of a caulk bead filling the gap between a tub and tile wall. (I have found silicone II product I like but it says concrete and masonry... any reason I should not use this tube vs. window and door? This one is almost the PERFECT color!) HI, Has anyone used or heard anything about Keracaulk S Caulk from Mapei? http://www.mapei.com/US-EN/product-d...62IDLinea=102 It was reccomended by a friend... well because it matches my grout... but that alone is not good enough reason... especially around a bath/shower. Almost finished. Need a screw for the shower handle and a curtain rod... and 24 hours for the Grout to dry. Used Color Rite's Sanded Caulk match for Mapei's Frost Grout #77. The colors were so so so close. Now, Curved, double, straight, curtain rod? Hmmmm. Next project 32X60 shower in the big bathroom and a backsplash for the kitchen. Will try to keep it all on one thread this time. A curved shower rod will give you so much more space and be much more comfortable to use! It most certainly did. Big difference. We picked up a moen dual curved shower curtain rod. Not to hard to install like the reviews said. Just use the templates and install with at least one helper.

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Weil-McLain Furnace problems

Hello all, Dumb grunt here...and I bought the house from hell. The latest problem is with my Weil-McLain PCG-6 Series 5 gas heater. I always had problems with the zones, as during remodleing and construction I believe at least one of the thermostats ended up missing. Throughout the winter, everything seemed fine albiet with high electric bills. During the recent cold snap we noticed the house was bitterly cold, and despite turning the working thermostats up nothing was happening. I checked the pilot light and it is on, but the burners are not lighting. Nor have I heard the circulating pump kick on. I am a plumber/piperfitter by trade, but at a loss when it comes to gas furnances. Can anyone point me in the right direction to correct this? I looked at W/M's web site could find nothing on a PCG boiler, so let's start with the basics. Make sure the breaker is on, any switches are on, the gas valve is set to on not pilot. Beyond that, we will need to get into the electrical controls. Do you have a volt meter know use it? I broke down and called a professional today. I looked at other posts and checked everything that I could. So at this point, I am sure its an expensive electrical component or other item that will require a service tech. Just another thing wrong with my money pit..LOL. Worse is, I pay to fix it now, and were back in the 60's and higher for the rest of the season...if I dont, theres bound to be another cold snap. Just my bad luck. I appreciate your response and all the other help given on this page! I am going to start posting fixes and recomendations in the plumbing section to help out. Thanks again, take care and be safe! You guys wont believe this, but apparently my cats (or at least one of them) got into the wiring and disconnected the signal wires from the boiler to the automatic valves. I have four zones, and the guy I bought the house from used phone wire for the thermostat and other low voltage wiring and its hangin in the basement all over. Aparently this is attractive to felines LOL :-) Thanks again all They can be pesky critters. Glad it was only minimally painful. I do suggest you replace all of that phone wire with 18 gauge thermostat wire. If the felines like to chew on it, you can get armored thermostat wire but it is hard to find expensive. I had to use it in my attic because of meeses. Maybe I can borrow one of your cats. LOL. I'm sure the guys on the plumbing board will appreciate the help. Welcome Aboard. Originally Posted by SFC_Assanowicz Hello all, Dumb grunt here...and I bought the house from hell. The latest problem is with my Weil-McLain PCG-6 Series 5 gas heater. I always had problems with the zones, as during remodleing and construction I believe at least one of the thermostats ended up missing. Throughout the winter, everything seemed fine albiet with high electric bills. During the recent cold snap we noticed the house was bitterly cold, and despite turning the working thermostats up nothing was happening. I checked the pilot light and it is on, but the burners are not lighting. Nor have I heard the circulating pump kick on. I am a plumber/piperfitter by trade, but at a loss when it comes to gas furnances. Can anyone point me in the right direction to correct this? ran across this older thread and thought i should share some insight into the pcg series boilers. these are now obsolete so no parts are available from weil mclain so keep that in mind, also if you have any other probles down the road, the flue in these boilers is difficult to clean as it is made up of many small fingers to extract the heat, a long skinny brush and lots of time is necessary to do an adequate job of cleaning I have a Weil-McLain p-cg 5 water boiler. It is about 26 years old. My problem is that it short cycles alot. I have ajusted the thermostat anticapater. It still does it. I would appreciate any help.

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vertical deadbolt better than regular deadbolt?

does a vertical deadbolt (segal) offer more protection than a typical single cylinder deadbolt? In general, yes, depending on several factors. The difference can be nil, to quite substantial---Assuming you have a wood door frame, the screws supplied with both types are often inadequate; the strike plate screws must be long enough to penetrate the wall stud, typically 3 to 4 inches. In the case of the Segal lock, since it surface-mounts to the door, be sure the screws are long enough to penetrate at least 3/4 the thickness of the door. The other factor I would consider for both types is the type of key cylinder--thanks to recent publicity the internet, even petty thieves know that the cheaper locks can be bumped open fairly easily, so you might consider a so-called high-security cylinder, though they can be expensive. At least with the Segal type, the rim cylinder is a seperate component which can be replaced with a higher quality bump-resistant cylinder. thank you, that's helpful. i'm going to start by investigating the door jamb. it's an old house so i'm not sure the wall stud is where it should be. i will post a pic of what i find. also, any recommendations for the key cylinder replacement? our outer door has crappy defiant locks and i believe it was bumped. however there is an inner door which had the segal lock on it and the thieves must have found it to be a little too much trouble. this was in the middle of the day on a fairly busy residential street/area of course. i also want to replace the locks on the innermost door to my apartment (three apartment brownstone). If $$$ is no object, ask your local locksmiths about a Medeco or Abloy brand rim cylinder for the segal type lock you plan to use...(there are others, but these are the most top-of-the-line, readily available ones)...$$$ because you're paying for patented, restricted key duplication, drill-resistance, etc. If more than you'd like to pay, ask the smithy about some of the better 6-pin commercial grade rim cylinders---much cheaper, and more challenging to the casual petty thief to pick, than the residential-grade low-end cylinders supplied with most big box stores. Also, a quick note about the term bumping: this is a form of lockpicking, and as such, generally does not damage the lock, or leave evidence to the homeowner that the lock has been picked. One notable exception would be if you encounter a turned keyhole, but this is most often due to a worn key, or inapropriate key pattern, on low-end locks. (be sure your key cannot be withdrawn in any but the one key-withdrawal position, to eliminate this possibility) In my opinion, Medeco is overpriced trash. The product has repeatedly proven to be bumped and picked easily. There are only two guaranteed bump proof locks. Abloy and Bilock. With all the evidence in the last year with video evidence and discussions with Medeco, they absolutely had to retract their advertizing campaigns that touted their products as the only bump and pick proof product. It is not surprising that another company in America has been found wanting. Besides the mounting evidence against them, the overwhelming quantity of agents duplicating keys, makes the key control of the product very loose. The quality of the product is very good mind you, but be warned! Thank you for the advice. I wound up recently purchasing a Schlage Grade 1 commercial deadbolt, the B660p: Certification: ANSI/BHMA Certified A156.5-2001, Grade 1 auxiliary lock. Deadbolt: 1 1/8x 2 1/4, Square corner faceplate, 1 housing diameter, 1 throw. Strike: 1 1/8 x 2 3/4, Square corner, box. B600-Series is Schlage's toughest heavy duty Grade 1 commercial deadbolt that are furnished standard with the door frame strike reinforced with 3 screws and 7/8solid brass or bronze trim rings. This unit significantly strengthens a wood jamb against kick-in attack and greatly increases the security effectiveness of this lock. Single cylinder deadbolt with 6-pin patented Everest C123 keyway standard and two nickel silver keys per lock. I'm sure the description is probably overstating the security somewhat but it's certainly better than the Defiant junk. As for the cylinder, can I replace the cylinder with an Abloy or a Bilock? Anyone know where to buy Abloy and Bilock and how much they cost (for cylinders and for entire deadbolts)? Also, any specific type and where to buy a more secure strike plate? Need to clarify some terms---a Rim Cylinder is a separate, lock component; not a complete lockset. They are available in many brands and grades. They are designed to fasten to and operate a wide variety of Rim Locks and other speciality locks that surface-mount to the door. A Segal lock is a type of Rim lock. You do not have a Rim lock, it is a Cylindrical Deadbolt which operates as a single unit; it does not lend itself to replaceable components of a different brand. The Everest C123 keyway, is a high quality cylinder certainly better than 95% of the deadbolts you typically find on residences, but it is not classified in that group called High Security in terms of pick-resistance. If you have a specific concern of someone attempting to pick the lock, you could trade the B660 for the B700/800 series that uses the Primus cylinder which DOES employ a high-security cylinder. Ask your locksmith for more info. AS for the strike plate, go ahead and install the supplied strike with the 3 screws; when drilling pilot holes you will discover how close the wall stud is to the door frame, so you will know whether or not to get longer screws. If you'd still like something more substantial, ask your locksmith for a High-security strike plate for a cylindrical deadbolt.....they're usually pretty long, wide, and with 4-6 screws. My understanding of this sites policies, is not to give specific names of companies of where to purchase from. If you search online, there are multiple companies that sell both Abloy and Bilock. Cylinders for the B660 in Bilock are model #9324. They are supplied without the tailpiece. The list price is $80.00 including 2 keys, but you can probably get them cheaper. You need to install the tailpiece from the existing cylinder and screw the retainer pin through the threaded bezel to hold the tailpiece correctly. The Bilock #4301 single cylinder deadbolt is a GR2 deadbolt and lists for $109.00 with keys. The Bilock #4302 double cylinder deadbolt lists for $175.00 with keys. I dont know the exact price for an Abloy Protec cylinder (or the model #), but I suggest they cost about $110 each + keys (extra). The deadbolts are around $220 I think. When considering strengthening the jamb, look into a product called Strikemaster II. Very good quality and guaranteed by the manufacturer to prevent kick ins. (if it fails they will pay the first $250 of the insurance excess) There are other products too....a few options to consider. Good Luck! As a point of note: The better quality the cylinder (excluding Abloy Bilock), the easier they are to bump open. Contrary to opinions online suggesting that the issue with bumping is reduced by not having access to keyblanks....it is a fallacy. If someone has access to any key of the same profile (keyway), that key can be easily altered and modified into a bump key. Originally Posted by rstripe ... it is a Cylindrical Deadbolt which operates as a single unit; it does not lend itself to replaceable components of a different brand. The Everest C123 keyway, is a high quality cylinder certainly better than 95% of the deadbolts you typically find on residences, but it is not classified in that group called High Security in terms of pick-resistance. If you have a specific concern of someone attempting to pick the lock, you could trade the B660 for the B700/800 series that uses the Primus cylinder which DOES employ a high-security cylinder. Ask your locksmith for more info. The cylinders in the B660 are interchangeable with other manufacturers (Abloy, Bilock, Primus etc). rstripe is incorrect in this point only. The Everest C123 cylinder is significantly easier to pick or bump than the Primus, but more likely only being able to be done by a pro. Thank you for all the help. I am looking into Bilock. I might replace the cylinder on the B660p with the one GlobalLocky suggested. Keys are darn expensive, $10 each and I would need about 10 I think. I found a few online dealers so far but I emailed BiLock asking them about dealers in my local area. The cylinder goes for about $80. I will have to take into consideration the fact that the BiLock probably doesn't come with a tailpiece although the two pictures I saw from the online shops showed it did have it?? Originally Posted by lessbluez Thank you for all the help. I am looking into Bilock. I might replace the cylinder on the B660p with the one GlobalLocky suggested. Keys are darn expensive, $10 each and I would need about 10 I think. I found a few online dealers so far but I emailed BiLock asking them about dealers in my local area. The cylinder goes for about $80. I will have to take into consideration the fact that the BiLock probably doesn't come with a tailpiece although the two pictures I saw from the online shops showed it did have it?? I am a Bilock dealer....so perhaps a little biased.....but the truth is the truth no matter how biassed or not. I will send you a PM with prices if you are interested...or better yet...PM me your email address and I will email you with details. I am able to supply tailpieces...but you will find that the original tailpieces will be better to use anyhow and the cost is slightly more to include tailpieces (you dont need them, so save your dough) Many of the online dealers simply do not have the experience or knowledge that others posess.....in fact most of them do not stock any product....but order direct from the manufacturer and drop ship to the client. Most of them do not have the unique machinery required to produce the keys or the pinning kits or software designed to build the cylinders. There are about 25 dealers across the USA. Of these 25 dealers....only about 15 actually own their own machinery, the rest order from the factory. I have been dealing the product for over 20 years and posess the necessary machinery. I may not be the cheapest....but my prices are competitive. Thank you, GlobalLocky, I stand corrected on the ability of the Schlage 600/700/800 being able to accept replacement cylinders....You know what they say about poor memory...You meet new friends every day...! I would like to get in touch with GlobalLocky about deadbolts and strike plates. Originally Posted by Bill131 I would like to get in touch with GlobalLocky about deadbolts and strike plates. Sent you a PM and email Bill131.

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Troubleshooting furnace not kicking on.

I have an older, low-voltage (24VAC) furnace which, the last three years has religiously burned up older non-smart thermostats (mercury based I guess). I say burned up because my solution was to simply replace the thermostat and things would start working again. Symptoms are that I could enable the blower just fine from the thermostats, but the furnace itself would never kick on. Visual inspection of the furnace showed the flame kicking on for a few seconds, but then stopping (no pilot light on this furnace) instead of continuing. As mentioned, replacing the thermostat would correct this. Last year, I replaced the old-fashioned style thermostat (when it broke) with a Honeywell RTH2310 I got from Wal-Mart. It worked fine all last winter and summer and the last couple of weeks as I've started using the heat again until this morning. Same symptoms as before. This time I really want to understand what is causing these things to go south on me... I busted out the voltmeter and checked my voltage across the R terminal to each of the others for cooling, heating and the blower respectively. All showed about 27V (seems a bit high, but don't know if this is a concern). I replaced the batteries on my thermostat and also reset the circuit for the furnace itself. No change. I'm wondering if perhaps a fuse on the thermostat itself has blown... it still seems to function fine, but I switched my voltmeter to resistance mode and tried testing between the prongs on the thermostat that slide into the terminals. I assume current needs to flow between these prongs... My ohm-meter gave no readings here, but I don't have a before reading to compare with. Will probably try directly wiring the R and W wires together tonight when I get home just to verify that the furnace will kick on, but any other thoughts? Happy to replace the tstat again if I have to, but would rather figure out why they seem to keep dying. Not sure what would cause this to burn out the stats. The newer stats are just a simple on/off switch. Jumper the two wires together and see what happens. Did so. No change. The furnace clicks, the igniter glows, but nothing ignites and the igniter eventually goes off. Opened up the furnace, removed power, turned gas off/on then reapplied power. No change (same behavior as above). Perhaps the control module that decides when to let gas come out is burned out? I'll probably just give someone a call. My furnace is a Snyder General ComfortMaker GUD060A014AIM. This problem actually sounds very similar, though I'm not sure I will attempt measuring voltages inside the furnace. :-) Ok, got adventurous and have been trying some volt readings within the furnace. From the place where the wires run in from the thermostat, two wires run up to what appears to be a transformer. If I put my voltmeter across these two wires at the transformer, I get 26-27V when I have my thermostat wires R and W wired together. There are two additional wires running from the transformer to the gas valve. I stuck my voltmeter across these wires at the terminal on the transformer and observed the following: An initial click occurs. Time passes and the igniter lights up. Shortly thereafter, another click is heard. However, I don't observe any voltage across what appears to be the two gas valve terminals. The igniter goes out. I don't know if this furnace has a pressure switch, but I'm guessing it doesn't or the igniter wouldn't kick on (I don't hear any sort of inducer fan)? So not sure what is supposed to tell the gas valve to start emitting gas... and what controls sending power to those two wires. I am not able to find any info on your model.. Is there a small fan on the exhaust pipe? Couple links: Very similar to mine. Ditto (same guy) Not the exact same model number, but looks almost identical. The control board housing (?) at the bottom on mine is all enclosed is the main difference. Filter at the bottom as well on mine. Will go check for fan on exhaust pipe and take some pics if possible. Ok, took a bunch of pictures as well as a video. Should all be viewable here. Doesn't appear to be an exhaust fan from what I can see (you'll see what I believe to be the exhaust in the album above). Well, get a load of this... after buttoning the system back up subsequent to taking and posting the pictures this AM, the darn thing kicked on. Burners and all. It seems to be working right -- at least for now. I've opened and closed it multiple times, so no idea what was so special this morning. I did go toggle the blower on and off manually immediately after reassembling it, but that was it. Very odd. PS: Of note, last night I whacked the gas valve a couple of times when the igniter was lit up just to see if it was stuck or something. Didn't make a difference at the time, and didn't whack it at all this morning. Maybe coincidental, but worth mentioning. Sounds like the gas valve is getting power, but it's not picking the valve open to allow the gas flow. I'd plan on getting a new gas valve, or start saving up for a new furnace. Also, RED FLAG on your gas line going into the furnace!! Flex should NOT be used! it has to be the black pipe. Hi Jay, all... just a follow-up. Things worked OK for a week or so, but then the furnace started exhibiting the same behavior. Seems like my post #4 above was the key, although I wasn't sure at the time I was measuring correctly. HVAC guys came out and said the ignition module was bad. Apparently they didn't read any voltage across the wires connecting the igniter module with the gas valve at the expected time.... they swapped it out (it WAS a White Rogers 50E47-140 and NOW is a 50ER7-843) and all is well again. I did ask about the gas line, and the HVAC guys said it was definitely not code now but probably was acceptable back whenever my beast was put in. Sounded like replacing it would be an ordeal. Future project? Did you get the control replaced? I would do the change out on the gas line soon, unless you are planning on a new furnace soon. Thanks, Jay. I am renting, so will bring it up with the landlord. An update -- all was fine for about 5 days. Tonight got home from work and no heat. This time the new control board has a blinking yellow light indicating reversed polarity and even when calling for heat, the igniter doesn't come on. I did some basic measurements with my meager skills per the control board's documentation. Didn't measure any voltage (well 0.1) between L1 and GND, and -- at least when calling for heat, between L1 and TH I got (oddly enough) 9.7v instead of the expected 95ish. Maybe control board went out again, but wonder if something else is to blame. Heading out for Thanksgiving so will have to deal with it when I return. If you are renting, quit messing with this and call the landlord you don't have heat! Your landlord needs to get this fixed.

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I am embarking on my first tile job....tiling my laundry room. I am ready to make my cuts. I need to rent a tile cutter or wet saw. I know that a wet saw is the preferred choice...but will a simple tile cutter get the job done ? The tiles are 12 inches. Should the tile cutter cut like a knife....or can they be difficult and cumbersome to use ? Thanks for the feedback ! Alzee77 I used the simple tile cutter for my entryway and bathroom with no real issues. It will however, be alot easier to cut the tiles that go around a door jam with a wetsaw. Tiles that need more then one cut will need a wetsaw to make life easier. Practice scoring the tile with your cutter on a scrap piece of tile so you know how it works. I bought a cheap electric ($51) wet saw and it's the best money that I've ever spent. I got it at a cheap tool store (made in China). It's a small table saw and came with a 7 diamond blade. It has a plastic pan under the blade that you add water to. I've cut a lot of (1/4) ceramic tiles with it and it's still good to go. Shop around before you rent. You may be able to buy a saw cheaper than renting one. steve Yes we bought a saw cheaper than renting one. It is wonderful and so easy to use (but very LOUD) You have total control over where you cut and the shapes you cut. Long after I finished the tiling job I bought it for, I still find I use it regularly for patch up jobs and helping rellos and neighbours.

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Hi, I have a Symmons Temptrol model A shower valve in my shower.Iam not getting good hot water.There is very hot water throughout the rest of the house including the sink near this shower. The web site said for this problem to take the valve apart and soak it in vinager to loosen deposits,as well as tapping it to free its movement.... I did that,and it seems alittle better,but still not real hot.Any ideas on getting hot water out of this unit?Thanks. The word Temptrol leads me top believe that this may be an anti-scald fixture. They NORMALLY have an adjustment inside to pre-set the hot water so there is a high limit to keep kids from getting too hot of water. Check to see if yours has a built in adjustment. Good luck. Are you familiar with the limit stop screw on the Symmons Temptrol? Have you tried to loosen that screw. If you have screwed in too tight it will prevent you from making the water hotter. Check out this PDF. It has a diagram to show which screw is the limit stop. Page 1 also has the instructions about the limit stop screw. IMPORTANT: After completion of installation step 4, follow these instructions to set the Temptrol Limit Stop Screw. This valve is equipped with a limit stop screw to be used to limit valve handle from being turned to excessively hot water discharge temperatures. To adjust, remove dome cover, open valve to maximum desired temperature and turn in limit stop screw until it seats. http://www.symmons.com/ins/temptrol_ins.pdf Dear cschroth1, I have exactly the same problem you had with your 'Temptrol' shower valve.. did you get any help you can pass on? either the limit stop needs adjusted or the cartridge needs replaced i had the exact same problem as others mentioned. over time i had to turn the handle further and further to get hot water - and the time came when it was turned all ther way(360 degrees) and all i got was lukewarm water. changing the spindle(cartridge) not only solved the hot water issue, it also vastly increased my water pressure. it took me less then 15 minutes to replace the cartridge and i'm a novice when it comes to plumbing. make sure water is off and turn handle about half way(to prevent damage to cap) before starting. remove handle - remove faceplate - remove cap(spindle will come out with cap). unscrew spindle from cap and replace with new one($36 at home depot - part # TA-10). reverse steps above to reassemble and you're done.

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We are getting ready to put new carpet and pad in our new home that we haven't closed on yet. I have spent many hours reading on the web and must say that carpet ratings, grading, etc. is a bit of mystical science it appears. I am having three different local stores measure today so a lot will depend on that but i have looked at a wide array of frieze samples and am getting conflicting info. I understand that i should be concerned with fiber, density, face weight and twist count. But haven't found ALL of those items on a single sample in ANY of the stores. Many samples have NONE of that info but rather a cheesy 5 star rating etc. Also prices have been all over the place: Store A: Recommended going with some product that you can use bleach on to clean. Price was $2.50 per ft. on 40 oz and $3.50 for 70 oz. Also had to buy pad at 40 to 70 cents per ft. Installation is $99 not counting tear out or stairs. Store B: Found a Shaw sample that had a rating of 3.5. Cost was $2.86 per ft. INSTALLED and PAD INCLUDED. Lady said they are using it in all of the more expensive custom homes being built in town. ( prices $250,000 +) She also suggested we go look at some of them. Store C: Didn't really find a sample there but they are measuring for us, so info is limited on them. Lowes Home Improvement Sales guy there was less than exciting. Prices were good and they throw in a cheap pad. Haven't ruled them out but won't use and installer i can't lay eyeballs on first. I too am researching new carpet for certain areas in my home and am feeling overwhelmed. If you don't mind me asking, where are you located? I had Lowes install frieze carpet carpet in my home. I don't remember the mfg. The carpet is nice but the installation is lousy. I can see every seam in carpet. Lowes says its the installer's responsibility to fix. Installer says it's normal and will go away over time, It's been a year and the seams are just as visible. He also scratched my new tile floor with his tool box and denied it also. I won't use or recommend using installers from any big box store. I believe these installers can't make it on there own so they contract with the big box stores and the stores use them because they are cheap. Another thing they don't tell you ahead of time is if you use a vacuum with a beater bar it will fray the carpet. Had to buy a new vacuum also and I can tell you it didn't come from Lowes.

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Ryobi weed eater won't start.

First off, I have an old computer Pentium 200 Pro. To come to this web site and end up here took about 10 minutes. Think about it! I have a Ryobi gas trimmer that is two years old. I forgot to drain the fuel out last fall and now it just plain won't start!! What do I put in the tank with a few pulls to dissolve the crud? Changeling Hello Changeling! Is that when they made computers out of wood? There's nothing I know of that would be something to add to the gas to fix the problem. I would drain the old gas, fill with fresh, and prime it until the primer pushes gas into the tank when you press it, and pulls gas from the tank when you release it. Then choke it and hole the throttle wide open, and pull it several times. You might have to pull it 15 or 20 times. If it doesn't start, try backing out the high and low speed screws and try again. When you get it running well, adjust them back. If still no luck, then it's time to pull the carb and clean it. I have already tried all the things you suggest. I thought there might be some type of additive I could pull into the carb by pulling the starter and let soak that would dissolve the gum or what ever is stopping it up. Changeling I feel for you. I know the feeling, I have one too. That thing has never started easy since new. If i have a problem with mine this year just going to junk it. Never buy anything Ryobi again. My friend has a Ryobi gas power leaf blower and that thing never wants to start either. I bet I pulled on my weed eater 50 times last year to get it to start. Then it wants to quit once it is running. Most educated people in the field of petrolium will tell you there is nothing that will remove varnish/gum deposits in a fuel system by way of additives and I agree with them. The only fix is to remove the carburetor, soak it in a quality bath-type cleaner and recondition the carb with a kit. Originally Posted by jetjestor I feel for you. I know the feeling, I have one too. That thing has never started easy since new. If i have a problem with mine this year just going to junk it. Never buy anything Ryobi again. My friend has a Ryobi gas power leaf blower and that thing never wants to start either. I bet I pulled on my weed eater 50 times last year to get it to start. Then it wants to quit once it is running. Operator manuals and Operating instructions are not kindling..... Operator manuals and Operating instructions are not kindling..... Azis I have read the manual. I have tried adjusting the carb. I have pull the engines out of many cars and trucks. Rebuilding engines, not like I don't know what I talking about. Have taken a two wheel drive truck and made it four wheel drive. Do you own a Ryobi? Everyone I know that has one, has the same problem. Plus why is that you see them on sale for so cheap? Cause many them are sold factory recertified. That means something, if your product has to be reworked to me. My opion they are junk. Right now I'm rebuilding a Dynamark snowblower which is 32 years old I believe. I'm not stupid like you make me sound. Originally Posted by jetjestor Azis I have read the manual. I have tried adjusting the carb. I have pull the engines out of many cars and trucks. Rebuilding engines, not like I don't know what I talking about. Have taken a two wheel drive truck and made it four wheel drive. Do you own a Ryobi? Everyone I know that has one, has the same problem. Plus why is that you see them on sale for so cheap? Cause many them are sold factory recertified. That means something, if your product has to be reworked to me. My opion they are junk. Right now I'm rebuilding a Dynamark snowblower which is 32 years old I believe. I'm not stupid like you make me sound. Easy guys. I am not new to engines in any way either. I have only been stumped once in my life on a 7 hp kohler engine I own. Everything has been tried two carbs, all electronics. The engine will no run!! If anybody had of told me this before I would have said they were nuts. It has had several experts on small engine repair try and everything has been replaced at least once! It will not run! As for the Ryobi, i was warned that they experienced a lot of problems before I bought but I bought it anyway! Since my post I have talked to people at Lowe's, and a repair center. Changeling Moderator edit: Sorry Changeling, but items listed for sale aren't allowed in the forums. Nothing against you, but I cannot make exceptions, or it wouldn't be fair to everyone. I removed the last part of the post. Cheese Never did I have ne intention of making anyone feel stupid!!! My reason for posting here is in fact to hopefully help people feel Less stupid and offer explanations that do not require a technical degree to understand. I do own a ryobi string trimmer and have had it for 10 yrs. Never added fuel stabilizer, changed the plug or touched ne thing maintenance wise other than changing impliments. That is not to say that Any brand can not have a or several defective units. They do however come with a 1 year manufactures warranty, regardless of what warranty the seller may offer. It clearly states in the owners manuals of this warranty, and if for any reason u are dis satisfied to contact them for a solution... It was a general comment which in most cases, is relevant. My apologies if any offense was taken, none was intended Originally Posted by Azis Never did I have ne intention of making anyone feel stupid!!! My reason for posting here is in fact to hopefully help people feel Less stupid and offer explanations that do not require a technical degree to understand. I do own a ryobi string trimmer and have had it for 10 yrs. Never added fuel stabilizer, changed the plug or touched ne thing maintenance wise other than changing impliments. That is not to say that Any brand can not have a or several defective units. They do however come with a 1 year manufactures warranty, regardless of what warranty the seller may offer. It clearly states in the owners manuals of this warranty, and if for any reason u are dis satisfied to contact them for a solution... It was a general comment which in most cases, is relevant. My apologies if any offense was taken, none was intended Azis, I appreciate your effort and sincerely hope nothing I said unsettled you. However I would get rid of that statement about real men if I were you, that's inviting sarcastic replies!! I read instructions rather well, been doing it for years now, no problem there. As for the Ryobi, it's in the front yard with a For sale sign on it, If I looked at it hard and it started, I would still sell it. Moderator sorry about the add, I know better just wasn't thinking. Changeling No problem!

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Rerouting baseboard heating pipes in PEX

All of the pipes for my hot water baseboard heaters on the 2nd floor were piped up through the first floor and none of them hidden in walls. This is unfortunate because I have ugly pipes everywhere. Although it probably is the most efficient setup (running the pipes through uninsulated exterior walls was not an option). I intend to reroute everything so it's hidden. At the same time I intend the reroute things in the basement to get it up into the joists instead of at head-clunking height. I think this would be best done with PEX. For the most part, I think I can find an interior wall for everything to run through, but in some spots the exterior wall is much easier. Would it be ok to run the PEX through an exterior wall assuming it's on the inside of R-13 insulation? Will the heat from the pex hurt my drywall? What other factors should I be considering? 3/4 black pipe and copper is used throughout most of the system, however there are several runs done with 1/2 copper. The heaters themselves are 3/4 copper. Everything seems to heat ok as is. Shall I redo everything with 3/4 PEX? I know I need an oxygen barrier pex - any particular kind/brand reccomended? Thanks, Chris Everything sounds good based on my understanding. Pex-Al-Pex may be something you want to look into. The aluminum middle layer is a true barrier, where the EVOH coating is actually a retarder). The 3/4 stuff is very tough to shape (compared to the 1/2) but the expansion factor is greatly reduced. No problems either way running them up the walls on the inside. The biggest danger to using the outside wall for heating pipe risers is the threat of freezing. If you happen to live in an area of freezing cold winters, particular attention should be paid to exterior walls facing the prevailing winds. This is usually north and northwest, but it could differ, depending on from what direction the winter winds blow at your location. PEX seems the only logical piping to use, especially if you have to snake it up to 2nd floor areas. There are usually firestops cross bracing in the walls which would make this very difficult, if not impossible with copper. Thus, search your mind to remember the direction of the coldest winds try to route the risers on that side of the house thru internal walls if possible. In the event one or two risers does freeze, it's rare that they would rupture, especially with PEX, but you would lose the heat from that particular convector until the weather got warmer. Often, a women's hair dryer played into the wall at the bottom of the wall cavity (in the basement) is enough to get things moving again. It's also recommended that you leave the very bottom of the wall cavity open free of insulation on these prevailing winds walls, on the stud cavities that have the risers, so that warm air from the basement can make its way up the wall cavity. Thanks for the tips! I think I can use an internal wall with all but one pipe. In this case my plan is to lay r-13 fiberglass insulation in the wall first, then route the pipe, then put drywall over it. Should I keep the pipe from direct contact with the drywall? A similar question: if I replace plaster walls with drywall behind the steel heat reflectors for my baseboard units do I need foil between the reflector and the drywall? I don't think it gets that hot... Concerning PEX, do I need to use a barrier type PEX if my boiler has a stainless heat exchanger? The only other metal in the system would be the 2 black/iron pipe for the first floor zone. Everything else will be copper and pex. Thanks, Chris Is your circ bronze or SS? If you have ANY ferrous metal in the path of the boiler water, you need to keep the oxygen out... I guess I'll be going with barrier pex. Any reccomendations for brand? The cheapest I found is sold by Menards and you have to special order it. Most of the stuff online is about 30% more expensive. Any suggestions for fishing the pex through walls? Seems like it would curl up and get caught really easily. Thanks! Check ebay ... put PEX in the search. There are quite a few folks selling there, and the prices seem _reasonable_ but I haven't shopped much. Worth a look though...

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replacing gear in craftsman garage door opener...HELP!!

after reading the posts on: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=194172 i ventured to replace the worn out gear on my craftsman garage door opener. Everything was going pretty cool, until I reached the gear shaft, and it was time to slip the plastic gear off it. The gear is held on the shaft by two roll pins one above andd one below. After a couple hours and lots of swearing, I still cannot get these pins off the shaft, not even the lower one. These are stuck real hard as the pins are some sort of compression type. I tried spraying lube/rust dissolving spray, using a punch and hammer, drilling inside the hollow drill with a bit, but too no avail. I dont want to get the whole unit down because I dont want to mess with the rail (attached to the unit) and the chain, sprocket, etc. I am close to calling for a technician to help, but I thought I would check here to see if anyone had similar problems, and if there is a work around. I guess i can buy the whole center shaft with the gear on it, and replace the entire thing, but that would involve removal of the chain, rail, etc. Please help. -Mash I did mine a few years back so I can't give you a lot of detail. I recall I had to use a punch bigger than the roll pin until It was flush with the shaft, or the punch would go inside the roll pin. Once I did that I could use a punch about the same size as the roll pin. I believe I had to use pliers to get the pin out (with a bit of pulling and some bloody knuckles) after I ran out of length on the punch. By the time you call a pro, you might as well buy a new unit if you can install it yourself. I only replaced it because it it was cheaper. I just replace my gear and it was a snap. Remove the entire assembly (you don't have to remove the motor and casing) Removing and replacing those pins is far easier on your bench...took me 2 minutes to reinstall You have to remove the drive chain and remove the whole gear assembly.You do not have to remove the rail. The assembly comes out from the top of the opener by removing (3) hex bolts (5/16) end wrench. If there is not enough room to remove the gear assembly from the top (IE. the ceiling is in the way), then un hook the motor from the ceiling and drop it down and let it rest on top of the open garage door. It would be better to replace the whole gear assembly with a new one that already has the plastic gear installed. The reason being is the upper bushing just below the drive sprocket most always goes bad too I have a Craftsman garage door opener as well and have just replaced the worn gear this evening. Like you said, mine is installed to hold the rail as well. The clearance above the opener is not enough to pull out the shaft. It took me about 2 hours to get the lower pin out. I saw your post and got the idea of spraying the pin with WD40. I used two flat screws, one slightly larger, and one the size of the pin, as punches. Once the pin is flush with the worn gear, I used the smaller screw. That's when I had problem getting it out until I soaked the pin with WD-40 for a while. Then I hammered it all the way through until the pin popped out. I had to remove the three screws holding the shaft in place, so that I know I won't bend the shaft with excessive hammering. I had to use the other hand holding the shaft and the screw in place. I left the upper pin in place. Once the new gear is in place, I had trouble inserting the new pin all the way in as well. I just stopped when the new pin is securely in place (one side flush with the hole at the other side of the shaft). Since the new gear is secure anyway (and there's not much play underneath the gear), I guess that will do until other parts of the opener fails (and warrants a total replacement of the unit). Thanks for all your suggestions. I ended up removing the whole shaft from the top as indicated by Virch. My fear was not to mess with the chain alignment, tension, and more so I noticed the center rail was attached to the unit. I still managed to remove the shaft by unscrewing the three screws holding it to the unit and pulling the whole thing from the top. I had to tilt the opener a little since there was hardly any room between the opener and the ceiling, so I could pry the shaft with the gear out. Once out, it was a breeze to get those suckers out working on the bench, after propping on small 2x4 blocks. Thanks, again. I feel a pro already! one other related question....any pointers on tighten the chain. I tried tightening it as as mentioned in the instructions that came with the gear kit, but notice the chain since hangs quite loose in teh closed door position. Is this normal? The door closes and opens fine after i did the adjustments and the safety tests. All you need to know here: http://tinyurldotcom/gearfix (fix the url by removing the dot and putting in a .)

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Removable center post for double gate

I have a wooden double gate (for vehicle access to fenced yard). The gates are sagging really bad. I would like to install a center post to provide needed support but the post needs to be removable. I have heard rumors there are such things but can't find any info on them. I realize I could put a sleeve in the ground and slide the post into it, but not sure that is best approach. Suggestions? How side are the gate panels and what are they made of?? Is it the gate panels that have sagged out of square, or has the weight of the gates caused the posts to lean in?? What are the gate posts -- the posts that these gates are hinged off of?? Gates are 60 wide each made of 2x4 frames with vertical wooden slats. The gate panels have sagged out of square (as well as warped). The gate posts are those used for split rail fences (can't really call them 4x4s but they are similar). Posts are good and sturdy and are not leaning in. The gate panels are hinged onto the posts, 3 hinges per panel, vice hung from the posts (if that makes any sense). vsaunders, A center post would only be addressing the symptom and would do nothing to cure the problem. In fact, it would create other problems for you. Your posts seem to be able to handle the pressure that the gate panels are applying to them. The problem is the gate frames. The easy fix would be to install a 'sag kit' on each gate panel. An eye bolt at the top of the frame on the post side and at the bottom at the latch side, then a 1/8 or 3/16 S.S cable between them with a turn buckle in the middle. Tighten the turn buckle and it will take the sag out of the gate frames. After that is done, install steel gussets at each corner of the gate panels. I would use an 1/8 stell plate about 12 square for each gusset. (Cut each plate diagonally and you'll get 2 gussets out of each plate.) The problem that a center post would create would be that you would be relying strictly on the latch of each gate to hold the gate panel square. That's asking a lot of the latches! Opening the gates would be difficult, at best. Another cure would be to replace the wood frames with steel frames (Think chain link gate panels without the chain link fabric.) Install a wood rail across the top and bottom of each panel and attach the fence boards to those. Here is a related posting: http://forum.doityourself.com/fences...uper-post.html I put in a couple of removable posts when I built my fence. Instead of burying the post, we put in a 6 sonotube with a post anchor on top. Not quite as stiff as a buried post, but easily removable. You could add a wheel to the bottom like they do with wide commercial gates. Like something you would see on a trailer to move it around after you take it off the hitch. Wheels work as long as the surface that they are riding on is hard, absolutely flat, and perfectly square to the plane of the gate hinges. In the real world, that is seldom the case unless the area was designed with the wheel in mind from the very beginning. I built a double gate on the side of my house on a corner lot for access for my trailers. It was all wood and it sagged. I built another larger one, and it sagged even worse. So, third time is a charm. Oh, and I have the pickets facing the street, and due to my HOA being the ****s that they are, I didn't want them to know there was a gate there, so the pickets were flush, but it opened to the inside of the yard. No hinges or latches visible on the outside. You can't tell there is a fence there. Here's what I did: I built a frame out of steel. I welded it all up, and it takes all the weight. It has hinges welded to it, and they are attached to the fence post. There are two techniques for slowing, curing, or eliminating sag...one, when you make the frame out of wood or metal, there needs to be a diagonal support from the top corner of latch side, going to bottom corner of hinge side. If this doesn't make sense, imagine that gate mounted. Now imagine pushing down on the top corner of latch side. You'll be pushing that diagonal piece down and into the hinge post. Hopefully that painted a picture for you that you can see what I mean. I wish I could put a picture here for you. The other technique is the cable support. It has already been mentioned here. It attaches to the opposite corners of the diagonal support. Use turnbuckles so you can adjust over time. Okay, then I built the panel like you'd do a panel for the rest of the fence, and attached it to the metal frame, and used shims to space it out enough to be flush with the outside of the rest of the fence. Where I put the gate, I moved it 4 feet away from the nieghbors fence. Two reasons. One, I wanted room to maneuver when I was backing something thru the fence. I didn't want to be limited on that side and always be right up against the fence. Once thru the gate, I wanted to have some wiggle room. Second, for more support with another post. The neighbor's fence and mine, where they meet, there is a post (obviously). My first two fences were hinged to this post on that side. I didn't have wiggle room or support. So, I went 4 feet, and put in another post. These added a lot of support for the gate. I did the same on the other hinge post...I put the hing post in, then another just four feet away. This eliminated part of the sagging problem, which wasn't the gate sagging, it was the posts leaning in toward each other. Now to answer your actual question. I put all posts, which were 8 feet long 4x4's two feet in the ground, in cement. I originally planned to cement the center post in, wrap it in plastic so the cement wouldn't stick, and it would come out. Well, it didn't come out so easily. The cement settled inward, compressing the post. But it didn't stick! I had to widdle the bottom of the post a bit so it would go back in, and that's how it is today, three years later. It's a tight fit, but it comes out and goes back in pretty easily. The gates (which are 6 feet EACH!) close on either side of the center post. The inside edge of each latch-side of each gate rests up against the center post, and then I used a rod-latch to lock it. Two techniques I planned to use but never got around to it, one is wheels on each corner of each latch side for support when the gate is opened. Didn't really need it as the two posts on each hinge side kept those posts from leaning. And I didn't use the cable support. One other technique. Get some pipe, or a chain link fence post, and cement that in the ground. I'd use one 3 feet long, and cement it two feet in the ground. Use plastic or something so the cement doesnt stick. Wrap it up with several layers, like about ten garbage bags. When the cement cures, the pipe should come out without too much problem. The extra thickness of the plastic will absorb the settling pressure of the cement, and make the hole only slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe, allowing it to go in and out easlily without wobbling too much. The hole in the cement will be small in diameter (not 4x4 like would be a fence post) and you can easily plug it with something when the center post is removed. Now get a 4x4 post, or whatever size post you are using for the rest of the fence, and drill a hole in it 1 foot deep into the bottom of it, and 2 in diameter. Put the pipe in the cement hole, and put the post over the pipe. You'll have a shorter fence post, which will be lighter (it will be two feet shorter), it won't rot in the ground, and will be easy to remove. And the pipe will be easier to remove out of the ground than a wooden fence post, too. Sorry so long, hope this helps. SOLER

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questions-re-new-water-softener-peerless-and

Questions re: new water softener; Peerless and Wolverine Co. product info?

Can anyone provide feedback about the quality of the metered demand water softener units provided by two West Michigan companies: Wolverine and Peerless? Hi, I am a new subscriber, but have read many of your posts and they have been very helpful. Our previous HAGUE WATERMAX water softener recommended by and installed by an independent contractor plumber broke after a prolonged power outage. We are told by two plumbers that it can’t be fixed. So, pursuant to the advice I’ve read on this site, we’ve had representatives of 4 local companies come out to test our water and provide recommendations. Two plumbers have recommended a 30,000 grain unit with a separate brine tank that would hold 5 bags of salt. One representative - not a plumber but a salesman - recommended the Wolverine 40,000 grain unit with a separate brine tank that would hold 4 bags of salt. Both are demand units. We are a family of 4 with two teenagers. Our water hardness measures 23-24 grains per gallon and our iron measured 0 today, although the city reports that it adds phosphorus to it because of iron levels ranging from .1 - 2 ppm. The city flushes the pipes biannually, and as needed. We periodically have rust settling at the bottom of our brita water pitcher, and the white plastic is stained orange. My questions: 1. Can anyone provide feedback about the quality of the metered demand water softener units provided by two West Michigan companies: Wolverine and Peerless? 2. Are the two above described units large enough for our household? 3. One plumber stated that one of the systems “removes” iron from the water and from the brine, so that the brine never becomes saturated with iron. Is that shown to be possible? 4. Is there any annual maintenance that should be done? Both said it wasn’t “necessary,” but I’m wondering if that’s more a sales pitch than a recommended practice. 4. Does salt with rust remover damage any system? 5. Is there any risk to letting a water softener remain unregenerateddd for 3-4 weeks while we’re out of town? - Risk to either water quality or to the softener itself? 6. Are salt pellets or salt crystals recommended? Thanks so much for your continued help and whatever advice you can provide!! Originally Posted by wrilei My questions: 1. Can anyone provide feedback about the quality of the metered demand water softener units provided by two West Michigan companies: Wolverine and Peerless? It's too difficult to rate clearly without knowing the actual valves used. Most valves are reasonably good or they would not be using them. Moreover, the service of the companies can be even more important in the long run. I might go with the company that specializes in water treatment and not as an add on business like most plumbers do. Originally Posted by wrilei 2. Are the two above described units large enough for our household? A 40,000 grain unit with regenerate about every 5 -6 days. This will work very well. Your salt efficiency will be set on high due to your special iron situation. Since you are on city water, did anyone there recommend dechlorination? Find out your chlorine count, which can fluctuate, but generally is about 0.5 to 1.5 ppm, typically. Originally Posted by wrilei 3. One plumber stated that one of the systems “removes” iron from the water and from the brine, so that the brine never becomes saturated with iron. Is that shown to be possible? Why do you put iron in quotation marks? Neither system will do much for removing the iron, unfortunately. That may be a tough hurdle to jump. Originally Posted by wrilei 4. Is there any annual maintenance that should be done? Both said it wasn’t “necessary,” but I’m wondering if that’s more a sales pitch than a recommended practice. If your softener is set up correctly, there should be little or no maintenance. Check the brine drum once in a while to see if bridging or mushing is occuring. Some valves may require more attention than others. There is a non-electric softener that would avoid the problems you had with the Hague. Originally Posted by wrilei 4. Does salt with rust remover damage any system? This will not be necessary with your water. Originally Posted by wrilei 5. Is there any risk to letting a water softener remain unregenerateddd for 3-4 weeks while we’re out of town? - Risk to either water quality or to the softener itself? I would not worry about that for only a few weeks. Some softeners have a 'calendar overide' that forces it into regen even if you don't use any water. The unit and resins will be OK. Originally Posted by wrilei 6. Are salt pellets or salt crystals recommended? Thanks so much for your continued help and whatever advice you can provide!! I recommend pellets over solar salt. Either way, get the highest quality salt especailly if your brine solution is treated water rather than raw hard water. Some of the problems or dilemmas that you described can be avoided with a twin tank softner. They are more expensive but are worth it. Andy Christensen, CWS-II It looks to me that both Peerless and Wolverine sell Fleck equipment. I've used Fleck for over 18 years and they make a great valve. For your home the cost range would be $600.00 to $1000.00 depending where you buy it. Thanks for responding so promptly. We can't stand this hard water, so we are trying to make a decision quickly. Several follow-up questions: 1. I'm not quite sure why Andy says we would need to use salt with a rust remover when we sometimes have rust that settles at the bottom of our water pitcher and the pitcher has become stained orange over time (though the toilets aren't stained). 2. We had someone come out tonight that works for a water treatment company selling a kinetico. In your guys' opinions, given all your experience, is it worth paying about $1,000 more for a kinetico in our situation? (The power outage we had this summer was the first we've had in the 15 years we've lived in this area.) I love the idea that it doesn't require electricity and that it seems that it would be very efficient, but I'm not sure that justifies so much money. Originally Posted by wrilei 1. I'm not quite sure why Andy says we would need to use salt with a rust remover when we sometimes have rust that settles at the bottom of our water pitcher and the pitcher has become stained orange over time (though the toilets aren't stained). I think you meant to say 'NOT need to use...., right? With you particular water conditions, the iron will go right through the softener, so a special iron-out salt will not be needed. You said that water was treated with phosphorous. More accurately, it is probably poly- (or by-) phosphates. These additives to municipal water supplies are due to the lack of using other methods to reduce iron. These phosphates sequester ('encapsulate) iron molecules preventing them from being oxidized and converting to ferric iron (Fe+++) which causes stains. However, hot water tends to release (separate) this iron causing some staining. That is why toilets keep clean but showers, washers and dishwashers get stains. Also, time can cause the iron to reveal itself and that is why water in pitchers can collect insoluable iron particles. The phosphates coat the iron so well that they pass right through the softener. This process causes mixed results as you have seen. Originally Posted by wrilei 2. We had someone come out tonight that works for a water treatment company selling a kinetico. In your guys' opinions, given all your experience, is it worth paying about $1,000 more for a kinetico in our situation? (The power outage we had this summer was the first we've had in the 15 years we've lived in this area.) I love the idea that it doesn't require electricity and that it seems that it would be very efficient, but I'm not sure that justifies so much money. I have worked with Kinetico products for about six years. Yes, they are expensive but, yes, they are high quality and very efficient. The non-electric part can serve many advantages and prevent the problems you had. Kinetico invented the twin tank design and that provides seamless water treatment. YOu would happy with the results in softening your water. Andy Hi, Thanks, Andy for your helpful description of how the phosphate treated iron passes through a softener. We can't afford the kinetico -- the dealer in our area gave us a quote of about $3,600, and that's just too much. So, we're considering a 30,000 grain automatic demand water softener with a fleck control valve and Sybron high capacity softening resin -- this is a softener put together by a local family-owned company (in existence for 75 years) and installed by a plumber we've used several times. It has a 1 1/2 year labor and parts warranty on the entire unit and a lifetime warranty on the salt and brine tanks. The company's owner has been very accessible and willing to answer my questions. He says the brine usually lasts on average 15-20 years in our area -- Western Michigan. The total cost installed, with installation of metal drainage piping and a power cleaning of our water heater, is $1,550. What do you experts think given the conditions described in my messages below? Thanks in advance for whatever feedback/advice you can provide.

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Powerhorse chain saw

Has anyone used the powerhorse chainsaw from what i have read reviews are not bad for the price,would be for home use.Price for 18 42cc automatic oiler tension adjuster $169.00 Thanks for your advice Made in China. Sharp chain attached to an engine running thousands of revolutions per minute made in china at your fingertips. Not a comforting thought...

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Permanently sealing a basement floor drain

Ok here's the situation. It's going to be a bit of a book, sorry.. My basement (mancave) is mostly finished, with a main living room, 3/4 bathroom, and 'bedroom' (which I use as an office). It is a slab floor with carpeting. It was configured this way when I bought the house. Now, there is also a large unfinished area where the washer/dryer is, and another walled-off room where the HVAC unit is. There are two floor drains in this area (one of which is constantly in use from the A/C drain in the summer and humidifier drain in the winter. For the very first time since I've been here, I had a water intrusion into the 'unfinished' area. One particularly nasty storm dumped 5 of rain in about 20 minutes, and due to the wind-blown debris the gutters clogged, causing them to overflow down the side of the house, dumping right into the window well. The well filled up completely, and weight of the water pushed the window open and water just poured in. This is when I found out that the second drain (the one that doesn't get the HVAC water) is extremely slow. I wound up with over an inch of water that took a couple hours to completely drain. I tried plunging it but it did nothing, so I know now I have to have a plumber come to snake it. I told you that story to get to this story. In the 'finished' section of the basement, there is a 10x10 bar area, and behind the bar there is no carpet, and there is a floor drain with a 3' diameter 3 deep 'bowl'. Now I've never had any issues with this drain (I've never primed it), and I was going to simply find some kind of grate to fit inside the 'bowl' so it's not uncomfortable to stand in. But several days after the flood on the other side I started smelling sewer gas in the bar area. When I went behind to look, I noticed that there was silt deposits all over the 'bowl', meaning that the water had backed up into the bar. My best guess is that the slow utility room drain and the bar drain connect together upstream of the blockage, and only by chance it didn't overflow the bowl and ruin the bar and the carpeting around it. Now that this has happened, I don't want to take any chances. I want that drain permanently plugged and I'm going to fill the bowl with concrete so I can level the floor and put tile down. What is the best way to plug it that I'm never going to be haunted by it? Expansion plug? Pack it with concrete? Breaking up the slab to cap and remove it is not an option. I am also aware of their purpose, so I'm not looking for comments telling me it's a bad idea. Aside from the bar sink, there is no source of water on that side of the basement or the floor above. The windows on that side are above grade with no wells. So there is no reason to have a a drain there where it could possibly do damage. Thanks If you are saying that there are 3 drains in all, I would say that they are all connected, not just 2 of them. Eliminating the drain behind the bar won't solve the window well problem. A dry well is needed for that. Snaking the slow drain would probably solve the inside problems but if you still want to eliminate the drain behind the bar, I would try hydraulic cement. You can buy a product called a 'flood guard' that is a rubber plug with a ball that closes up when you have a back water situation. These are pushed into the floor drain pipe and tightened down. They are not a perfect solution but are an easy one that can work, and these type of plugs cost around $10. They let water into the drain but not out of it. I have used them with success but there may be others who had failures for debris interferring with the closing ball action. Just another option for you. Matt, just stuff a rag, or better, a rubber ball that fits snugly inside the pipe and then concrete it over. Mmmm.. I like the rubber ball idea.. Pulpo I know for a fact that all three are not connected. The third one flows freely (its where I purge the hot water tank), and it didn't have any sign of backing up. And I know it doesn't solve the window well issue, but it has nothing to do with it since the window well is on the other side of the house (near the slow drain). It was a freak occurrence that won't happen again because I have since installed a cover on the well. None of the other windows have wells, they are above grade. Equinox, at this point I don't want the drain there. It's in a finished basement section and I don't see any beneficial reason for it to be there. All I see is potential major damage if it ever backs up again. i would sugest you snake the drains and see if you can get them to work properly first. if you have success and stillwant to close one or two of them off i would then suggest the type of plug that fits snugly in the hole and then you tighten it and it expands and seal (im not a plumber so i dont know the name of the thing) then you could put a stell plate over the drain and cement it level on top of that. this way it would only require some small amount of chipping if youever decide to re-use the drain in the future. I think if you have a drain you should never make it unusable. If it is there..keep it, even if you coverit over keep it so it can be brought back to life with minimal headaches. Again, I only want to kill the one drain. It is in a completely finished section of the basement, and it only has potential to cause damage. Like I said, there's nothing in that section of the basement or the floor above that could possibly cause a flood, and if outside water ever got high enough to run into the window there, I'd need an boat. That window is a foot above ground level (it's not in a well), and my front yard grades down another 4 feet to the street. If you don't like the rag idea and can't find a rubber ball that fits then carve a piece of styrofoam for a plug. All it is for is to keep the concrete from going down the pipe.

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  Long question on cold basement floor
  
  Long question on Cold Basement FloorLaminate or Vinyl? Insulation options? Okay folks, here's the sitaution. I have a basement office with carpet installed directly on the concrete floor by the fo...
  


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  Painting basement floor
  
  Painting basement floorI just finished ripping up old carpet and then popping up vinyl tiles off my basement floor. My plan is to paint the floor. Any suggestions as far as prepping the floor befo...
  


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  Leveling concrete basement floor before laying laminate
  
  leveling concrete basement floor before laying laminate.I eyeballed (mistake) the concrete after tearing up carpet to see if it was level for laying laminate. I began laying and now I ran into an...